Best Foot Forward
A sleek backpack or capacious carryall is all the man about town needs to keep it together.
Brand: Brunello Cucinelli
He made his name with colourful cashmere sweaters, but Brunello Cucinelli’s obsession is the perfect jacket—well-cut, relaxed and light enough to move with its wearer.
This spring, puffer bombers and cosy cardigans mix things up, layered over elegant polo tees and paired with drawstring pants and sharp shorts.
The effect: dressy chic that’s unmistakably dapper-cool.
In the house’s first “see now, buy now” September collection, creative director Christopher Bailey—inspired by Orlando , Virginia Woolf’s 1928 novel—has conjured up plenty of layers. Literally. The trousers/ shirt/sweater/jacket combination is reimagined in a palette of rich fabrics, elaborate floral prints, and colours from an English grandmother’s wardrobe.
Sleek varsity and bomber jackets are shot through with a subtle sheen, wire-framed sunglasses sport askew lenses,—and, in a genius design riff, a carryall doubles up as a backpack with twin padded straps at the bottom of the bag.
Hit The Gym
Brand: Dior Homme
Suits versus sports is one of the biggest stories in menswear today. Sportswear wins this season at Dior, with punk and new wave, two of Kris Van Assche’s obsessions, clashing in a study of contrasts.
His high-fashion take on street style flexes its muscles in bomber jackets, baggy skate pants, and sleeveless shirts or tunics that are far removed from Dior Homme's signature lean, rigorous silhouette.
The Great Gatsby meets Sicilian speakeasy in oversized street-sport tops—blousons, bombers, jackets—embellished with sequinned or embroidered patches, saxophone and other music-themed prints, and retro posters for southern Italian music festivals.
Subtle tailoring is the buzzword at Dunhill, whose standout pieces demand a second look: a compact double-breasted patchpocket blazer in a textured herringbone weave, a simple field jacket in shades of taupe, or a sleek navy pinstriped suit.
Salvador Dalí and Pablo Picasso were the unlikely inspiration for a quirky, art-inspired collection, with painterly splashes of faux naive motifs and Dalí-esque but Fendi-fied face-pattern patches on bombers, bags and even hats.
Picasso’s penchant for wearing towelling shorts surfaced in “sponge” (as Fendi calls it) striped tees, cabana coats and Picasso tribute shorts; the material was also used in place of fur as inserts on a jacket.
While his signature subdued palette and jackets that hug the body just so are still evident, the inclusion of jacquard knitwear, shades of purple, and denim jeans offers a shot of youthful sportiness you don’t normally associate with the king of Italian fashion.
Quite a Splash
Artistic director Véronique Nichanian, known for her interest in and use of colour, references the house’s equestrian heritage in a yellow, blue and black horse-print bomber, and a baby blue polo-necked sweater with white striped trim.
The gypset male, as imagined by Jonathan Anderson, marches to his own beat in an eclectic mix of organic, tribal styles with a touch of kitsch. Bohemian ’60s-influenced silhouettes in linen, terrycloth and silk are juxtaposed with a breathable, water-repellent rain jacket.
Intricate textiles, exotic skins and a menagerie of animal prints, courtesy of British art brothers Jake and Dinos Chapman, rev up boxy jackets, silk shirts and lean, cropped pants with a faint ’70s flair.
All Mapped Out
Oversized windbreakers, parkas, and zippered rain pants crayon colours; and flamboyant checks, tropical prints and graphic stripes anchored by colourful burley socks, glossy sandals, and multicoloured backpacks.
While his nostalgic, collegiate, all-American style is never far behind, this season sees rugged utilitarian-luxe pieces, including shearling coats and fur-trimmed bombers, alongside elegant dinner jackets, and slim trousers that recall the Art Deco era.
That '70s Show
The Great Outdoors
Brand: Salvatore Ferragamo
The first men's collection since creative director Massimiliano Giornetti left in March last year sees the suit reinvented with an artsy camping vibe, peppered with primitive graphic motifs inspired by French painter Jean Arp.
Blousons and variations on safari and shirt jackets are given street cred with utility pockets and even a foliage print assembled from 100,000 hand-cut leather triangles. The backpack in off-white canvas is sturdy—and decidedly indulgent.
Light blousons, soft jackets, and parkas in rich shades of blue as well as burgundy, green, and purple evoke visions of Greek gods in a modern metropolis, while Versace’s signature prints are treated as watermarks and adornment rather than full-on motifs.
Photography by Jason Lloyd-Evans