Why so savage? Josh Boutwood guides Shauna Jay Popple Williams through the evolution of the relationship between man and food and, ultimately, brings her back to the good ‘ol basics
"Welcome to Savage. Savage is a chef-driven restaurant. All the dishes use pre-industrial cooking techniques. We aim to be the first zero-waste restaurant. It’s all about going back to our primal selves.” No two ways about it. No wishy-washy fusion gastronomy that doesn’t quite know what it wants to be—we were getting exactly what our comely server, Lexi, said we would be getting.
Unlike those trendy au courant “Instagrammable” hipster restaurants, which are, bluntly put, all smoke, mirrors, and no real substance, Josh Boutwood’s new (but old) concept, milks one aspect of that scene: the smoke—literally. “Each recipe developed is only 70 per cent of the final flavour and then we rely on the 30 per cent that comes from the cooking method, which would be the smoke from the oakwood,” explains T.Dining’s Best Chef for 2018.
Savage’s menu conjures images of cavemen returning from the hunt with a roaring fire underway and their cave (women) going about with what they’d foraged from the forest earlier in the day. In fact, aside from the chef ’s key ingredients (fire, smoke, and ash), the kitchen is piloted on two guiding principles: one being that goods are sourced locally, and the second, operating within a next to almost-zero waste paradigm.
“But,” Boutwood backtracks, “We are civilised savages. The word ‘savage’ is basically a bridge to connect us to a primal point in time where we relied on simple methods of cooking. We’re not sugarcoating any of the dishes. It is essentially just fire that brings out the essence, the flavours [in our food].” And while “dining” for early man became an interactive group activity, dishes here are, likewise, designed for sharing more than for personal consumption (although solo savages are welcome).
Still a work in progress, the 60-seater space is framed by industrial-chic walls punctuated by graffiti and stenciled outlines depicting Darwin’s theory of evolution. The tables and chairs, which aren’t of uniform height, are all from restaurants that The Bistro Group (of which Boutwood is Corporate Chef) formerly operated, and refurbished to suit the Savage vibe. Lest it became recycled firewood, the musically-inclined Boutwood is in the process of repainting one of his “very old trashed guitars” to mount on the wall.