The French chef William Mahi started his culinary career at the age of 14 and eagerly worked in many high-pressure kitchens. He has gained experience from Michelin-starred chefs like Alain Ducasse, Nicolas Le Bec, Jean-Francois Piege, La table des frères Ibarboure, Stephane Gaborieau, Christian Tetedoie, Jacques Le Divellec, Helene Darroze and Michel del Burgo. He fine tuned his skills and pushed himself to develop his craft, eventually being able to run his own kitchens around the world in cities like Beirut, Shanghai, Luxembourg, Istanbul and Athens where he was the chef of the two Michelin star restaurant Spondi.

Chef Mahi has been extremely busy as he just opened his first independent restaurant, 210 degrees Kitchen and Drinkery, and is already planning his second concept, here in Manila. As we eagerly wait to see what else is up his sleeve, we got the chance to learn a little bit more about him.

Philippine Tatler: Could you tell me a little bit what your most valuable work experience was and why?

William Mahi: To be honest, all the experiences I have had in my career were valuable. For me, 'valuable' means a lot of things—whether good or bad. When I look back to the past 21 years of my life, from the time I was a young cook to now being a chef, the way I train my team and the way I work is an accumulation of all the experiences I had along the way.

As a young cook, I chose the most difficult (one to three) Michelin-starred kitchens to work in, because at that point, I needed authority and loved to be under pressure.

I believe that when a kitchen is too relaxed, mistakes always happen. It is a war zone and a crisis room—that’s the way I was trained, and that’s the way I pressure my teams. I find that kind of pressure to be very beneficial.

In terms of cities I have worked in: I say Istanbul was invaluable because I was brought in to revive a flailing restaurant. It was not easy because in the beginning, there were challenges in the difference of culture and language and taste, but I am very happy that in two years, the restaurant became the most popular and chic one in the city. It showed me that I could make it anywhere, and that good food and style is universal.

PT: What influenced you to become a part of the culinary world?

WM: Ever since I was a child, I loved spending time in the kitchen, pinching food off the table and disturbing my mother as she cooked. I loved eating and I loved the way food was put together with different ingredients. In fact, my mother found that the best way to punish me was to say “No desserts for you William!” and that would make me cry and settle down.

I decided to be a chef when I was a 13-year old boy, watching cooking shows and being fascinated by the culinary world. That decision upset my parents a lot. My father even tried to slap me out of it. But I was determined, and left home at 16 years old to pursue my dream.

Often, I think back to that time and realise that I sacrificed the usual/ normal experiences of being a teenager and a young adult in pursuit of this very difficult calling. But at that time, I was just very focused and single-minded, reminding myself of what I wanted and having a need to prove myself. Some may say I am lucky and talented that I got to work with so many of the best chefs in that generation, some may say I am driven because I never give up no matter how tough things are. But I think it is a mixture of both that makes me who I am today.

PT: What is it that you love about food?

WM: What I love most about food is that I am able to send a message to my guests through my creations, and watch as their faces transform when they experience something memorable. I am a very emotional and sensitive person, and I love to know that I made people happy. As they say, the way to the heart is through the stomach.

PT: Any advice on how to properly appreciate a meal?

WM: First you should choose the restaurants carefully. Restaurants that focus purely on marketing and press relations do not necessarily translate into great food or experiences. If possible, try to make sure the chef is there that day. Remember to smell the food first. When eating, take slow bites and pair your meal with good wine. Lastly, be with good company.

PT: Do you have a favorite meal or ingredient?

WM: I am very simple. Some of my favorite meals include a good roast chicken and lots of roasted garlic (something I will be serving at 210° soon), homemade Chinese fried dumplings (guo-tie), or a good four-cheese pizza.

As far as ingredients go, it depends on where I am cooking. The exact same ingredients in different countries have very different textures and tastes. As you know, eggs turn out differently depending on what the chickens eat and where they are bred, as does sugar, as does everything else. That’s why recipes can turn out so differently even if they are followed exactly. And a good chef will always adapt recipes based on the products used.

I love using eggs and potatoes. They are such simple ingredients that can be transformed into so many different things.

PT: What do you cook for yourself when you are at home?

WM: My wife cooks for me at home. I enjoy her hometown dishes—simple but good Malaysian-Chinese food. Examples are: braised chicken with lots of garlic, stir fried vegetables, stewed pork, curry laksa noodles.

PT: If it was your last meal on earth, what 3 courses would you have?  

WM: I imagine it to be a sunset meal with my wife, on a simple table in the middle of the Indian Ocean on an uninhabited island with white sand and the sound of waves breaking on the reef.

On the menu:

1. Roast chicken, sautéed potato `persillade` with aioli, plus the ceps of my grandmother
2. A green salad with a simple olive oil and lemon juice and soy sauce dressing, my wife’s secret recipe
3. The orange rice pudding of my mum
4. A bottle of red wine: Chateaux Margaux ‘Brane – Cantenac’ 1982
5. Some Haribo gummy bears