It all started with a dream, but with hard work and pure intentions, restaurateur Claus Meyer and his team has help put Bolivia on the international fine dining map

The success of Danish food entrepreneur Claus Meyer with Noma restaurant in Denmark transformed the country’s dining philosophy. It helped people out of poverty, social discrimination, and kept bad food at bay, as Meyer used the restaurant to promote slow food in the country. By teaching ex-convicts how to be efficient in the culinary industry, Noma grew to a big philanthropic mission of Meyer. With René Redzepi, Noma’s head chef, he promoted the “New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto” and implemented pure, fresh, simple, and ethical food. By highlighting sustainable dining, Noma greatly helped Denmark in breaking through the international fine dining scene as well as a marginalised sector in the population by giving them another chance in life. 

Tatler Asia
Above Claus Meyer

A few years later, Meyer did the same thing in another impoverished country and uplifted more lives through gastronomy. Bolivia is considered as one of the poorest countries in Latin America. With many of its towns situated in incredibly high altitudes, it makes it very difficult for most businesses to thrive. Moreover, Bolivians were back then, unaware of their own cuisine’s DNA and the variety of sumptuous ingredients endemic to their environment. However, Meyer’s intention never waned. He began building a “fine dining temple” with an avant-garde tasting menu, composed entirely from indigenous ingredients that were yet to be highlighted in South America. By creating a culinary school for disadvantaged youths, Meyer trained a generation of young cooks who would eventually educate their communities and redefine their perception on traditional ingredients. 

With Danish chef Kamila Seidler at the helm of its kitchen and Italian-Venezuelan chef Michaelangelo Cestari as CEO, Gustu opened in an affluent area in La Paz city. “We work on local ingredients and develop the idea of working on traditional cuisine highlighting the ingredients available locally,” Seidler said during the Madrid Fusión Manila 2017. By implementing the strategies they did in Denmark, the team introduced to Bolivians the importance of food, thus rekindling the people to their rich gastronomic culture.

Tatler Asia

Today, Gustu is included in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016 and hailed Seidler as the Best Female Chef in the region. The restaurant’s name is the quechua word for “flavour” and indeed, it brought upon dramatic progress on Bolivian cuisine and its people’s appreciation of their own dining culture. “It’s surprising that we ended up touching the hearts of many people,” Seidler said. 

Tatler Asia

Gustu applies the “Kilometre 0 Philosophy”, which means that all products used in their dishes and drinks are exclusively born, planted, developed, and/or transformed in Bolivian territory. “Bolivia has a diverse range of products and we try to explore around them like the chillis, palmito, animals from the Amazon rainforest, fish, quinoa,” Seidler said. “We have to work out on what we have because we can’t reject what they give us and look for something that weren’t available locally. We started to think sustainably. That’s what the Tacama community is doing for us with regard to the crocodiles that were sold illegally for their skins. The illegal operations led to famine because it was supposed to be a source of food for them and that’s when we decided to work together to save the meat.”

PHILIPPINE TATLER: Sometimes you have all this sustainable gastronomy restaurants that are really priced so high that not anybody can afford it. I mean part of the commitment I think is to make good sustainable food affordable to anyone, right? 

KS: Yeah it’s a big critique that I received from Bolivia: “How can you build a fine dining restaurant in a poor country” and all our answers have been “All Danish people can afford to go to Noma.” There is a need for restaurants to be like this so that people can have something to strive for. Also, communication-wise, I didn’t think we can have all the attention of fine dining if we have opened a small bistro. Which means that when we get this attention, we can talk about all these challenges and all these wonderful things happening in Bolivia. Product-wise, it’s more expensive to buy local. We have nothing against restaurants that buy imported products and we don’t have anything against those who oppose our philosophy, but for us it’s a very important thing to try to push self-confidence in a country like Bolivia, which is to say “we can do this by using the country’s products and make sure that the investments that we made stay in the country. 

Tatler Asia

PT: How were you able to break that Bolivian’s mindset on their food and let the market embrace it?

MC: We have a lot of criticisms. Our main customers are foreigners because they appreciate much this type of product and appreciate Bolivian spirit. Right now, we are in a transition where we are lucky to find young Bolivians that we are now training to be head chefs. Of course, we will continue overlooking the quality but they will lead the flavours. We are aiming to be close to the local people.

KS: The international press say that Bolivia is fantastic, that the products are amazing, the wines are good, the locals are incredible. And the same thing happened in Denmark fifteen years ago. The Danish people were saying that Noma is all about seal penises and that we have nothing to offer. And then when The New York Times went to Denmark and said that Noma is fantastic, the Danish people started being proud of what we have. Probably, it is a normal reaction and I think it’s something that always takes a little bit of time before they embrace their own. 

Tatler Asia

“Cooking is not just work for them but it gives them hope for a better life, a motivation to improve their skills, explore their capacities, and push them to believe in themselves. That’s important for us.” - Cestari

Photos were taken from Gustu's website and by Philippine Tatler during MFM 2017

Topics