In this Philippine Tatler exclusive, we talk to the minds behind Cebu's exquisitely designed dining gem, the Pig & Palm

JI.jpgJason and Irha Atherton

Having expanded his culinary empire to over a dozen restaurants over the last five years, Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton brings yet another new dining concept to Cebu, Philippines, the hometown of his wife Irha. 

Utilising only the freshest of local ingredients, The Pig & Palm serves an upscale menu in the tapas style that Atherton is most well-known for, while celebrating the rich food culture of the region.  

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Resonating with the devout lifestyle of Cebu’s heavily Roman Catholic population, the restaurant’s design also evokes the visceral potency of spaces of worship. The heaviness, the harnessing of light, and the capturing of spatial moments are a testament to the typology. 

Wood elements inserted throughout the spaces recall the altar and pews that are found in traditional churches. Individual lounge alcoves are also clad with wood panels in a clever reinterpretation of the confession booth—so that guests can “repent” whilst indulging and imbibing on earthly delights. 

Contrasting with the heaviness of the architectural insertion, intricately detailed furniture and lighting adds a layer of opulence that elevates the dining experience to harmonize with the chef’s innovative haut-cuisine.

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The timbre structure of the tapas bar, with its expressed joinery and panelling, evokes the crafted carpentry of traditional furniture-making. Also expressing a clear tectonic hierarchy, the custom-designed furniture pieces are composed of a brushed brass structure that cradles the wood and leather seat insertion. The custom pendant fixtures also share the same design language of metal structures and add-on accessories to cater to various functions.

With an all-encompassing design strategy, Neri&Hu’s fortified settlement not only serves as a bastion of local heritage, but also a gateway to new encounters. Both the cuisine and the space aspire to strike a balance between old and new, rustic comforts and refined luxury, crafted precision and raw emotion. 

Lyndon Neri & Rossana Hu_photographed by Zhu Hai_color.jpgLyndon Neri & Rossana Hu | Photo: Courtesy of  Zhu Hai

 We talk to Lyndon and Rossana of Neri&Hu to understand the detail, heart, and philosophy that went into creating a trendy yet timeless dining space, read on to find out what they have to say:

   

Between you two creative masterminds, who focuses on what for each project? For restaurants and bars in particular?

We work together as a team. Of course there are also other strengths that come into play when we work on a project together. Generally, most things are shared, and we work very organically depending on time, availability, and interest. We have different strengths, and make up for each other's weaknesses. Lyndon is better at the concept stage, and is very good working with drawings and models. Rossana is better at the development stage, and works better with words and thoughts rather than drawings. Both aesthetic senses are quite similar, and both usually share the same big picture for the projects.

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What’s the Neri & Hu signature look/style?

We rarely think of the labelling of style when we design. If anything, we like to see ourselves as “critical thinking architects”, where we probe into problems in a deep way and come up with resolutions that respond to the problem.

 

Where do you go to get new ideas and inspiration?

We are very much inspired by the everyday, the mundane and the ordinary. We travel and read a lot. The very fabric of Shanghai as a city and the everyday activities in and around the city is also very much an inspiration.

Pig & Palm_photographed by Dirk Weiblen (7).jpg What was your concept for the Pig & Palm? Please describe the design philosophy behind the look and vibe of the space.

Neri&Hu’s design concept takes cues from Cebu’s Spanish colonial past, drawing inspiration from nearby historic monument Fort San Pedro – a tribute to the local heritage— but also a visual and emotional connection to the shared history of the people.

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What theme and palette were you after?

The restaurant is intentionally distinct from its immediate context; transforming the glass and steel of a modern commercial building into a brick fortification; it brings a sense of history that transports guests immediately to another time and place. Its main façade is composed primarily of gray brick in various bond patterns, with a single aperture for a glimpse inside and a discrete entry framed in wood. Upon entering, the brick material continues, drawing the exterior deep into the cavernous spaces of the interior.

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Was there partial input from the Athertons and the Mckowens? What were the initial discussions like?

We had a brief from Jason Atherton in terms of how the restaurant program should be but being raised in the Philippines; I had always been interested in the historical context of Cebu and its relationship with forts. The heaviness, the harnessing of light, and the capturing of spatial moments are a testament to this typology.
Lyndon Neri & Rossana Hu at Neri&Hu.jpg

Neri&Hu

Individually, what’s your favourite part/ space in the restaurant and bar?

Lyndon: the confession booths.

Rossana: the small rooms. 

Duck agnolotti, onion purée, finished with duck fat crumble. 

Roast pork belly, carrots, mash, creamed cabbage and mustard, apple sauce.

What’s your favourite Pig & Palm cocktail or dish?

Quite a few, but the interpreted roast pig and the vegetable dishes.