Cover Celebrity Chef Sergio Herman in the vast open kitchen at Le Pristine Tokyo

The Tokyo outpost of Sergio Herman’s one-starred casual fine dining restaurant, nestled off the lobby of the Hotel Toranomon Hills, showcases both the chef’s fine-dining chops and his love of Japanese ingredients

There are certain key considerations that foodies around the world ponder when deciding whether or not to book certain restaurants when travelling. Is the restaurant indicative of the culture and history of the place we are visiting? If the restaurant serves a foreign cuisine, is it so good and well-reputed that we will regret not having been? Of course, global gourmands will also inquire about the reputation of the chef and restaurant, both on local and international surveys and rankings. Those are prerequisites.

Many—especially those that have travelled widely and have already been fortunate enough to have dined in their fair share of fancy fine-dining restaurants—will also want to know, quite simply, if the restaurant is fun. This, to us, is especially important. Because one can only stomach (pun intended) so many fussy, formal fine-dining experiences. And especially when we’re travelling, we want our nights out to combine excitement, frivolity and fun with great food and drink.

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Above Le Pristine Tokyo is a gorgeous light-filled 86 seater designed by Space Copenhagen

This is the sweet spot that acclaimed chef Sergio Herman’s new restaurant in Tokyo, Le Pristine, occupies. Tokyo, of course, is a city filled with incredible restaurants—it boasts more Michelin stars than any other city in the world. Opening a new restaurant in this competitive culinary capital is a daunting task for anyone, but Herman has attacked the opportunity with a mix of experience, wonder and inspiration that is evident both when we meet the chef on the property, and also in the dishes on the restaurant’s opening menu. 

Le Pristine—which is a branch of his one-Michelin-starred restaurant of the same name in Antwerp—sits just off the lobby in the also-brand-new Hotel Toranomon Hills, a gorgeous luxury property managed by Hyatt, within Toranoman Hills, a new multi-property project by Mori (who is also behind Roppongi Hills and Omotesando Hills). Herman also runs Le Pristine Cafe, which dominates the hotel’s high-ceilinged and light-filled lobby.

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Above Through Le Pristine, Herman delivers a casual fine-dining experience that places fun as a priority

While Le Pristine Antwerp takes its inspiration from both Herman’s birthplace, Zeeland, the Netherlands, and the Milanese fashion scene, Le Pristine Tokyo marries the chef’s storied background with his discovery and love for Japanese ingredients. This is evident through the eclectic but brilliant menu that chef served us when we visited the restaurant in early March 2024. Over six savoury courses and three desserts, Herman showcased signature dishes that helped him earn three Michelin stars at his family’s (now closed) restaurant Oud Sluis back in 2006—interspersed with new recipes showcasing Japanese gourmet products.

Le Pristine Tokyo is presented as a casual fine dining restaurant, one in which you would feel equally comfortable in a T-shirt and (designer) jeans as you would your best cocktail dress and bespoke suit. Entering, you are greeted with an upbeat, fun playlist dominated by R&B hits from different decades. A large open kitchen takes up one side of the restaurant, giving almost every diner a view of their meal being prepared.

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Above Quelle Fete melted disco balls by design collective Rotganzen

The most notable design element, which also features in the Antwerp branch are melted disco balls that hang from columns around the restaurant. These artworks are a creation named Quelle Fete by design collective Rotganzen and are indicative of the chef’s joie de vivre and sense of style and humour. 

We began our meal with a small cold dish that showcased local produce marvellously—an ice cold Hyogo oyster nestled under a rose Champagne granita, accented with verbena and wasabi. The flavours were clean and subtle which allowed the fabulously fresh oyster to shine.

We then enjoyed one of Herman’s signatures, his Pizzette, which here in Tokyo is layered with bluefin tuna, wasabi, and stracciatella, flavoured with Tomasu soy sauce. This was a lovely and highly umami way to reference sushi through a beloved signature format that provided a great textural contrast when eaten—the combination of the crunchy bread and soft sensual tuna was highly satisfying.

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Above Hyogo oyster with rose Champagne granita
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Above Pizzette with tuna and stracciatella

The third bite was a delicately composed plate featuring horsehair crab with Hamachi (yellowtail) and pistachio, mikan and black radish. We very much enjoyed the balance between the unctuousness of the crab and the acidity in the sauce—a vinaigrette of soy and sushi vinegar and herbs with olive oil mixed with trout roe. 

This was followed by another artfully composed seafood dish—these last two dishes truly showing off Herman’s fine-dining chops. A beautiful crudo combining Botan ebi and amaebi was dressed with a simple vinaigrette, and surrounded by thin semi-circles of baby radish and okahijiki, a plant that’s delicately salty with a taste reminiscent of seaweed. This was then topped with a generous portion of creme fraiche and caviar. Raw prawns, creme fraiche and caviar have always been a winning combination that magically brings together the sweetness of the shrimps, the briny saltiness of the roe, with the slightly acidic cream folding everything together to create a perfect bite. 

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Above Hamachi and horsehair crab with black radish
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Above Crudo of botan ebi and amaebi with creme fraiche and caviar

The next course, albeit tiny, was our favourite of the evening, and another dish that wonderfully showcased Japanese ingredients alongside Herman’s decades of elevated European cookery. This was a vin jaune custard, a gorgeously soft and subtly sour ode to chawanmushi, served with sweet Japanese blue mussels and even sweeter local uni, perked up with a subtle pickled brunoise of celery and tomato. The mussel sauce, which was the underlying foundation for the dish, came from a recipe from Herman’s father. 

This diminutive stunner was followed by Herman’s signature seafood orecchiette—elevated comfort food at its best. Japanese scallops, Asari clams, and New Zealand langoustines cooked together with the ear-shaped pasta and served in a sauce of nduja from Hokkaido and topped with a mussel foam. This is the kind of dish that we are sure will create a regular returning crowd among Tokyo foodies.

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Above Vin jaune custard with uni and blue mussel
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Above Herman's signature seafood orecchiette

Our final savoury course was served in two parts. The larger was a Shingen chicken “Navarin” in which the breast had been poached and then seared or roasted until the skin was crisp; this was served with morels that had been stuffed with a farce of chicken thigh and goose liver, dressed with a rich sauce also made with goose liver. This was accompanied by a “Caesar salad”, a deboned chicken thigh sandwiched between baby romaine lettuce leaves, miso yuzu dressing, croutons, and barilotto cheese.

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Above Shingen chicken ‘Navarin’ with a cheeky ‘Caesar salad’

Moving into sweets, we got to try three great dishes. First up was a light, delicate and aromatic vanilla cremeux with a Japanese strawberry sorbet, fresh Japanese pink and white strawberries, and strawberry meringue. 

The second dessert was the showstopper and the dessert that we had been looking forward to the whole meal, Herman’s signature vanilla ice cream “a la minute”. Freshly churned vanilla ice cream—by churning it a la minute it has the texture of a soft serve—is dusted with cacao powder and then finished tableside through a generous serving of chocolate sauce and nuts. We love how freshly churned ice cream and gourmet soft serves have been having their moment worldwide and this version is one of the best we’ve encountered. 

To end the night, we shared another Le Pristine classic, what Herman calls his collapsed tiramisu: coffee ice cream with coffee sabayon, meringue discs, chocolate, freshly grated tonka bean and an amaretto-coffee sabayon.

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Above A beautiful refreshing composition showcasing Japanese strawberries
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Above Le Pristine's signature vanilla ice cream that is churned a la minute

An 86-seater, Le Pristine Tokyo may be one of the larger fine-dining restaurants in Tokyo. It’s a fabulous place, with great tunes, for a fun evening out with friends, families or that special someone. While it is not Japanese, the restaurant does showcase exceptional Japanese produce and is clearly inspired by the country’s cuisine and culture. If you happen to be in the Toranomon Hills area, it’s definitely a no-brainer to book a meal here. Even if you aren’t, it’s still very much worth putting on your Tokyo hit list (and yes, we know you have one). Given Herman’s (starred) pedigree and based on what we ate and experienced there, we expect Le Pristine Tokyo to be one of those restaurants that foodies across Asia will soon be asking each other if they’ve been yet. 

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