Food writer and author of cookbook Also Filipino puts his money where his mouth is by opening a regional Filipino restaurant in the premier island destination
“It was always part of the plan,” answers Angelo Comsti when I asked him if he had always wanted to add “chef and restaurateur” to his already impressive resume, which includes newspaper columnist, award-winning food writer, and cookbook author, among many other things that make him the industry mover and shaker that he is. “I have always championed regional Filipino food, so I think having my own restaurant that serves that is just a natural progression.”
That restaurant is Hàin, named after the Tagalog word for the assortment of food on the dining table. When Filipinos dine, it is usually a meal composed of two or more dishes anchored by a generous serving of hot rice. Comsti’s Hàin offers the same experience with a wide selection of local dishes made to be shared and served family-style on one of their long wooden tables that look like they were repurposed antique doors.
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While the restaurant was part of the plan, opening in Boracay was a detail that serendipitously fell on his lap. Home-grown boutique hotel chain The Henry was opening on the island, and owner Hanky Lee felt that a Filipino restaurant with a unique twist would fit right into his plans for the Boracay property. “Hanky is a friend,” Comsti starts, “and he approached me about opening a regional Filipino restaurant to service the hotel as well as walk-in guests. While there are many Filipino concepts already operating on the island— like the ‘paluto’ grills and seafood restaurants— we thought that offering dishes from all over the Philippines would be an interesting addition to the island’s food scene.”
While Hàin might be his first restaurant, Comsti is no newbie. He has acted as a consultant for many other restaurants and food brands, and he understands how finding the right partners for this endeavour will be tantamount to its success as well as ensure a harmonious working relationship. Having Happy Ongpauco-Tiu (Pamana/Tsokolateria/Private Dining by Happy Concept Group) on board provided Comsti with a strong ally and a reliable sounding board while allowing Comsti to take the lead. The food is mostly Comsti’s recipes, but Ongpauco-Tiu provides him with much-needed advice on how to run a restaurant on the island, plus a lot of much-appreciated feedback. For his beverage programme, Palawan-based coffee advocate Sly Samonte (LICK PH and El Nido) is a great fit and takes care of everything from fresh brews to cocktails.
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