Evolution seems to be the goal and theme of this Rockwell relocation, and the addition of their elegant cocktail lounge in the mezzanine plays a huge part. Ayà (the Tagalog word which means an invitation) has been in the works for many months now. Those who made it to their pop-up last year would know that their craft cocktails (concocted in collaboration with award-winning mixologist Arcadius Rybak) and à la carte small plates menu are reflective of their dedication to elevating Filipino flavours and food. I was delighted to see that their gamet kropek with ikura pinakurat cream has made the cut, as well as the addicting warek-warek and kilawin beef tartare.

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“Try the Negroni with the kropek,” Erin Ganuelas whispered as she noticed I had already drained my kamias Margarita. “The bitterness from the Negroni pairs so well with the gamet, which has that great seaweed umami,” she added. While Ganuelas still offers expert beverage advice, initially having joined the team as their sommelier, Ganuelas has proven to be a valuable team member, rising to the occasion as operations manager for the larger, now more sophisticated establishment. What does she expect from her expanded role? “Right now, as we are transitioning into our new space, I have the privilege of really looking into the small details,” she answers. “I made sure the tables were of the right height and that the proper stemware had been ordered. Of course, I will still be on top of our beverage program while also ensuring that everything is in place and running smoothly in front-of-house.”

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With Ganuelas in full control out front, chefs Navoa and Dolatre focus their attention on maximising their dream kitchen. It was designed according to their specifications, not only thinking of their needs but of the rest of the team. “When we were in the process of building the restaurant, not only were Nav and I thinking about what we would want, but also what kind of workplace everyone in the team will need and be excited about,” Dolatre shares.

The new Hapag is beautiful, to say the least. It was designed to encourage creativity, from the massive kitchen and prep area on the ground floor to the satellite kitchen on the mezzanine created to service Ayà. With their brand-new restaurant comes a fresh new menu entitled “Metodolohiya”. The 10-course degustation shines a light on the diverse cooking methods utilised throughout the Philippine islands. Dolatre, Navoa, and the rest of the team gathered inspiration from their travels around the country, learning from home cooks and roadside restaurants while finding produce and unlikely ingredients to experiment with and showcase.

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The meal opens with a warm beef bone broth, slightly bitter from roasted bones and made even more complex with some smoked beef fat. To cut through the richness, guests are encouraged to take bites from the accompanying watermelon and tomato burnt salsa. This is followed by a Hapag favourite, their innovative selection of snacks. Indulging the local penchant for texture, guests are treated to Hapag’s version of our on-the-go bites: a chive lumpia cylinder stuffed with pork kutchay mousse and sweet chilli gel, a “silog” canapé of gamet kropek, burong sinangag, alaminos longganisa, atchara, and egg mousse; pork chicharron topped with baby crab fat; and a wink at Filipino pop culture called “Hapag Flakes,” shrimp mousse “pimiento” in soda crackers. 

They demonstrate how the locals preserve seafood with vinegar and strong citrus through their blue marlin kinilaw, and masterful grilling from the southern islands with the rock lobster inasal. Filipino panaderya classics are elevated in their bread course, with the Batangas bonete given the spotlight, accompanied by gamet butter and mulberry jam. The most interesting thing on the menu turns out to be a steamed prawn and corn galapong, similar to tamales, flavoured intensely with salsa matcha, thick palabok sauce, and kaffir lime. Strawberry ice and hibiscus kombucha offer a refreshing reprieve before the main course is served. 

As it has become traditional in Hapag, there is a salo-salo main course that is served at the centre of the table, designed to be shared. It comes with a flavorful coconut and chicken broth to be sipped before the rest of the dish is enjoyed. The beef short rib and chicken adobo rice seem like a safe choice, but it is a delicious one I will be happy to have again. The rice is enriched by a combination of chicken and gizzard, something that learned Filipino cooks swear by. The ensalada of semi-sweet mango, grape tomatoes, latô, and sukang iloko vinaigrette is a Dolatre touch, a must-have condiment when this chef eats his adobo.

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The meal ends with some cleverly done desserts, starting with a rich Blackbird Farms goat cheese ice cream that is thick in texture and only slightly sweetened. The petit fours are delightful versions of street side treats, like their “cornetto” cone stuffed with banana cream, langka jam, and chocolate ganache; a durian kabayan; tropical fruit slices seasoned with citrus sea salt; and a bonbon of pandan kakanin, dulce de leche, semi-dried mango, encapsulated in sikwate dark chocolate. 

Hapag’s progression is clearly indicative of the dauntless spirit which has made it one of the impregnable pillars on which progressive Filipino dining now stands. Today, it is much more mature and polished. The space is strikingly elegant and is a befitting home to the restaurant’s strengthened position. Their innovative approach to traditional Filipino dishes and cooking techniques make their food fun and nostalgic for locals, but an interesting, tasteful adventure for those experiencing it for the first time. As with exciting beginnings, we can only wonder (with excitement and curiosity) where they will take us next.

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