On the 40th anniversary of Tatler Dining Guide, chef Vicky Lau recalls Tatler Dining’s role in fostering unity within the culinary community
In the ceaseless hustle of Hong Kong’s dining scene, where fads wax and wane like the tides of Victoria Harbour, longevity is a feat achieved by a select few. For Vicky Lau, the chef-owner and creative force behind Tate Dining Room, this rings true as the restaurant marks its 12th anniversary this year.
Lau, crowned Asia’s top female chef in 2015 and later named Tatler Dining’s Chef of the Year in 2023, made history as the first female chef to attain two Michelin stars in the region. Her culinary artistry has left an indelible mark on the fine-dining landscape of the city, with recent ventures like Mora, a soy-centric eatery, and Ān, a line of homemade soy products, demonstrating her enduring dedication to continuous innovation.
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Looking back at her journey, Lau recalls Tatler Dining’s role in fostering unity within the culinary community. “Given the demanding and unconventional schedules of chefs, it’s challenging for us to come together,” she reflects. “Tatler Dining’s events facilitated these gatherings.” Among them, Lau holds a fond memory of “Dim Sum Duets”, in which “non-Chinese-cuisine chefs embraced the task of crafting their unique renditions of dim sum. The dynamic energy of this event says so much about this city’s culinary landscape.”
However, thriving in Hong Kong demands more than mere survival. “Adaptability is crucial,” she asserts, adding that, “Restaurants that proactively embrace change and continually strive for improvement are better positioned to thrive in the long run.
“Consistency is another key factor,” Lau continues, emphasising the need to maintain high standards in all aspects of food, service and ambience to build “a loyal customer base and establish a strong reputation”.
Lau further stresses the significance of financial astuteness in navigating economic fluctuations. Yet beyond the numbers, she champions human connection. “Creating memorable dining experiences ensures customers return,” she insists. Lau also prioritises a positive work environment and valuing employee wellbeing, saying: “A sense of belonging will help retain dedicated staff members.”
Amidst the whirlwind of change, what stands the test of time? Lau’s answer is resolute: “It’s all about the food in Hong Kong.” Despite fleeting trends, the city’s dining scene remains rooted in its culinary heritage and pursuit of excellence. “People do not mind sitting at a small table or on a plastic chair on the street,” Lau explains, “as long as the dish quality is there.”