Cover Viyern Ooi, Tatler Dining Malaysia's Best Pastry Chef (Photo: Ignis KL)

We speak to the pastry maven about the desserts she conceptualises at Ignis KL

The dessert that inspired Viyern Ooi to forge a career in pastry is, in fact, the unassuming brownie. “I used to bake lots of brownies when I was younger and bring them to school,” the well-natured pastry chef reminisces as we sit outside Ignis KL on a breezy Monday afternoon. “It grew into a sort of obsession, and I am now very particular about them.”

A firm believer in fudgy over cakey, always, Ooi recalls that back when she was in college, most brownies available were more akin to chocolate cakes than their molten counterparts. “I would read a lot about fudgy brownies, and I went down a rabbit hole trying different recipes,” she chuckles.

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Above Ooi’s journey into baking was inspired by the unassuming brownie

Though she enjoyed it as a hobby, Ooi never thought she would become a pastry chef, but when it was time to go to college, it was her mum who suggested she turn it into a career. After completing her course at Taylor’s, she went to Switzerland to pursue a higher diploma for a year and a half, where she met her partner, Lroy Lim, executive chef at Ignis KL. 

She cut her chops in Turkey and New York before moving to Singapore for a job at Saint Pierre. “Working around the world gave me exposure and the skills to adapt to different environments,” she recalls. “I was fortunate to be surrounded by good people.”

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Above Ignis KL opened in 2022

Ooi and Lim have worked together for over ten years, but even so, it can be challenging. “However, over time, we’ve learnt to agree to disagree and not bring work home or bring home to work,” she laughs.

Moving to Malaysia, Lim had the idea to turn what currently stands as Ignis KL into a grill restaurant, with all dishes on the menu touched with a lick of the flame, including dessert. “I incorporate some form of roasting, grilling, or brûléeing in all the desserts,” she says. “This is often a challenge, as hot desserts are not my forte.”

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Above S'mores, Ooi’s best known dessert
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Above A signature dessert at Ignis KL made with coffee marshmallows

However, Ooi’s talent shines through in the form of well-balanced, creative plated desserts. The one she is known best for is the S’mores, made with coffee marshmallows and dark chocolate ganache sandwiched between homemade graham crackers. 

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Above Brûléed figs

As a fan of savoury over sweet, a personal favourite of mine is Ooi’s take on a cheese platter in the form of grilled grapes brushed with honey butter, served with parmesan crackers and yoghurt dip. “It is a reverse cheese platter,” she smiles. Other sweets on the menu include brûléed figs with sticky toffee cake and burnt honey cream, miso panna cotta, and banana bread with toasted rice ice cream.

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Above The interior of Ignis KL

To end, Ooi shares her tip for the best brownie (fudgy, of course): use high quality chocolate, which shines through in the final product.

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Credits

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Ignis KL

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