Nothing prepares you for a meal by Pedro Subijana.

The restaurant alone is breathtaking. We jumped into a cab, which drove through the incredibly scenic San Sebastian and up Monte Igueldo. The restaurant complex is being renovated and expanded to include an Akelaŕe hotel where guests can be pampered day in and day out.

Before even taking one bite, I was floored by the simple yet absolute beauty of the atmosphere at AkelaÅ•e. The restaurant, perched on a mountain, is sleek and clad in a slightly dark ocher shade of wood, with panoramic views of the ocean. The interiors are simple, striking and clean. To your right is the main dining room, while a turn to the left leads you out to a stunning wooden deck the stretches over the sea. Standing outside makes you feel so free and uninhibited, completely won over by Donostia’s charm.

I recommend going for lunch so that you can truly absorb the whole experience of eating masterful food while appreciating the views of the ocean. With floor to ceiling windows surrounding the dining area, every diner is able gaze at the sparkling, rich blue waters of the Bay of Biscay, as they embark on a gustatory journey.

Before starting the meal, we walked back into the kitchen, which was high ceilinged and decked out in stainless steel. A well-oiled brigade was concentrated – artfully maneuvering through the kitchen - preparing the intricacies of every course. Everyone had a purpose and was clearly impassioned with what they were doing.Deeper into the kitchen, behind a colourful mural wall, was where we met with Chef Subijana who was tinkering around in his testing room. In this isolated kitchen, magic happens. Filled with books, culinary gadgets and unique ingredients, the test kitchen is where chef’s beautiful mind brings forth iconic new methods, startling flavour combinations and inventive food. 

Entrance to the test kithcen at Akelare

The juxtaposition of staring at something so majestically natural, then at a dish that is so precisely constructed and man made, forces diners to realize that every aspect of their meal comes straight from the earth. It certainly heightens the experience and brings you into another world. Chef Subijana’s artful and wildly skilled way around the kitchen has earned him international attention and accolades.

It was surreal to think that in that very room was where he was able to conceptualize the food that has garnered him such revere, and international acclaim. This man has inspired a generation and continues to push the boundaries of haute cuisine, giving new meaning to the dining experience. To think that he did not always want to be a chef – starting out down the path to become a doctor or in hospitality management – boy would we have lost out! 

“Question everything. Why not do it another way?” – Pedro Subijana

Chef Subijana was warm, welcoming and jolly – mustache and all. He did not speak a word of English, but in our broken Spanish we managed to tell him how honoured we were to meet him and to dine in his restaurant.

Chef Subijana in his test kitchen

He joined AkelaÅ•e in 1975, infusing his imagination, passion and pure talent into the already established restaurant which now, thanks to him, has 3 Michelin stars. Throughout the decades he has been a pioneer in New Basque Cuisine along with other heavy hitters with whom he joyfully collaborates. The resulting fare is dynamic and expressive; known for being fiercely local yet consistently ground breaking and forward thinking. 

From doing my research, I had high expectations before coming to AkelaÅ•e. I was so curious and eager to taste his creations. Nothing could have prepared me for the experience, and all my expectations were shattered, in the very best of ways. 

Photo: Courtesy of Akelaŕe

Everything about the Akelaŕe adventure was spectacular. Course after course, we oohed and ahhed, devouring every last ounce of food. His menu is a distillation, a culmination of over 30 years of hard work, innovation, gumption and a golden palette. His seasoned hand tempers traditional Basque cuisine, techniques and ingredients with novel interpretations and international flavour profiles with outstanding skill.

We were presented with 3 different set menus to choose from: 2 sets of new Akelaŕe creations (Aranori and Bekarki), and 1 classic, made of his most popular dishes throughout the years. My two other dining companions and I each chose a different menu, allowing ourselves to try all three.

Photo: Courtesy of Akelaŕe

There were highly defined new flavour combinations and textures that you would never think to put together. Food mimicked other food: pepper was not pepper, risotto was not risotto, and what seemed to be a chocolate biscuit was far from it. My palette, my brain and my eyes were deceived, pushed into thinking about food pairings and preparations in unprecedented manners.

Join me in re-living this must try experience:

 Diabolic butter

Prawns and French beans cooked in an "Orujo" fireplace, tableside. The prawns are cooked with wine spirit, served with green bean cream and fish roe. Every bite is delicate and so fresh! 

A lobster salad that will make lobster lovers go crazy! Served with cider vinegar and veggie sprouts scattered around the plate.  

Light beef tartare with a new potato souffle puff and aromatic herb bread. A tartare to rival all others: it is perfect for novice eaters and seasoned tartare die-hards. 

"Pasta Carpaccio": a home-made pasta that is infused with jamon iberico flavouring. It tastes and even looks like ham even though it is made from a noodle. This 'carpaccio' is serviced with greens and mushrooms. 

"The leaves and the foie under the rain": A light dish of cold foie gras that is garnished with a rain like dressing and crsipy mushrooms

Chickpeas with violet potatoes presented in a very unconventional manner. The chickpeas are formed into a log like figure and is presented in a broth, topped with crispy ube. This is a very unique dish, unlike anything I have tried before. Every bite was filled with texture and new tastes! 

Potato snacks flavoured with ginger, curry and peas. 

Scampi and monkfish served with a green broth infusion. The monkfish fillet is raw and smoked, cut into thin slices while the scampi is lightly cooked. The infusion is made from obulato with monkfish crisps and small aromatic herbs and prawn powder. Stunning! 

Souffled kokotxa with white garlic pil-pil with codium seaweed tempura. Again, a perfectly texturized dish that is well balanced and classy.

"Desalted" cod bos with pasta shavings: the crystalized cod is presented in a crate with edible shavings, looking as if it was a delivery that had just been opened. The cod is served with a light tomato water and was so moist, glisenting and juicy.

Hake that is steamed in seaweed, served over spheres with seaweed essence with a plankton paste. The dish is accompanied by an oyster leaf, which is the most unusal and intersting thing. This vegetable, tastes identical to a fresh oyster! The plankton paste and seaweed essence are totally magnificent and make the meal complete! 

Grilled iberc pork presa with pepper seeds and garlic served three ways. Chef was really inventive, once again, as garlic was not just garlic. One of the three ways it was presented tasted just like sweet elephant garlic but was not a piece of garlic at all. The light brown item to the top left is a shell of sugar that encases a garlic infused mousse -- incredible! The pork was break apart at the touch of your fork soft and so skillfully seared and charred. Every bite was heavenly.

Roasted suckling pig with its 'bone' and an iberian emulsion and a potato puff. The 'bone' was completely edible -- made from a sugar, glucose casing, giving the dish that extra level of flavour. The pork's skin was not oily and absolutely crispy while its meat remained as succulent as ever. Outrageously satisfying!

Squid risotto and a butter flower. No carbs here! That's right, chef has found a way to create a texture that is so close to real risotto, by using squid instead of rice! The dish was delicious, inventive, new and truely lovely. 

Gin and tonic on a plate! Made of of a jelly of authentic gin and tonic, served with juniper sauce and other aromatics and surprises. 

 The broken jar of yogurt with gatzatua and berries: everything on the plate is edible! This is so playful and fun, showcasing how out of the box yet restrained chef Subijana can be, so as to temper the dish to perfection.

 The "cupcake" is made from yogurt foam, coffee and chestnut, with a splash of grapefruit for a fresh tone.

 "A different apple tart": A puff pastry toasted apple cream puff with praline that is encased in a eatable apple paper. This apple tart does not actually contain any apples! The flavour profile is on point, making you feel like every bite has a mouthful of fresh fruit! 

Additional desserts to complete a top notch meal!