Some of my favourites of the evening were the 2017 Blanc Sec de Suduiraut – a classic dry, Semillon Sauvignon Bordeaux blend. The crisp citrus profile paired beautifully with the buttered brioche topped with Negros crab and calamansi maionese. The 2002 and 1988 Pichon Baron were both equally surprising and wonderfully elegant, which to my opinion surpassed the much lauded warm 2009 vintage. The 2002 was silky and sophisticated with notes of cedar leaf and a bit of anise and licorice. The 1988 was similar and still very fresh but with richer layers of licorice and headier notes of moss and wet stone.

Pichon Baron is known for its long ageing potential which was proven by the 1957 that still had a lively color and so much freshness for a wine that was made before Neil Armstrong landed on the moon. The stewed fruit, leather and cigar box aromas reminded me of the lair of a silver fox. An older gentleman that still had that twinkle in his eye.

The star of the evening however was a spontaneous contender. One of the gentlemen at our table had purchased two bottles of the 1990 Pichon Baron just for us to share. It was pure perfection. Of an even silkier quality than the 1988 and 2002, it was like a scarf or lingerie of gorgeous washed silk, worn so often it slips effortlessly and coolly on your skin. It was tender yet sexy, both floral and dark with spice. Left a little, it softens to seductive aromas of toffee and coffee. It was like meeting a man in his absolute prime, with no need to be boastful or macho but flourishing in his understated sophistication and brooding charm. What a dream. Wow.

I shall refrain from giving the second “wow” because I like leaving room for improvement – and because of its long aging potential, I wouldn’t mind revisiting this 1990 gentilhomme in its golden years.