It was a sad day in February 2016 when Masseto and its adjoining Bar M closed its doors to an adoring foodie and Japanese whisky aficionado fan base. But not for long as a rebirth was in the cards by year end. Designed by architect Alfred Wieneke, a modernised and updated version opened early last December along the very hip and with-it Chino Roces, and christened M Dining.

As expected, M Dining, which was only open for dinner at the time (and then eventually lunch), reservations stacked up amidst the Christmas chaos as everyone eagerly awaited  their chance to reminisce and savour familiar ‘M’ flavours that had eluded them for months.

Executive chef Tom Bascon

Now in a bustling prime location and with a healthier parking situation to boot, the new space is airy and strongly masculine, yet punctuated with pretty touches such as tall vases filled with long-stemmed flowers and stunning artworks lovingly procured from and curated by M Dining’s partners.

Menu-wise, operations manager Tippi Tambunting adamantly retained Masseto bestsellers (to great effect) while the executive chef, Tom Bascon, has been focused on meticulously creating some stellar dishes that have, one by one, joined the oldies but goodies since January.

Grilled prawns on chorizo risotto

“I have started rolling out menu items that will feature my personal culinary experiences in those dishes. Which means I may use—but will not limit myself to—French, Japanese, and even Mexican ingredients and those from my travels as well that which will complement the existing menu,” explained Bascon of his modus operandi. Joining forces with him is sommelier Gigi Varua, who will deftly apply her knowhow and wine pairing magic across both old and new menu items.

For the meantime, loyal punters are delighted to have their bestsellers back. Starting with the chorizo puff with aioli and then the pizzas—the anchovy with roasted garlic and jamón with roasted tomato are always popular pica-pica choices. “We are adding more pizza varieties to the list so that bar regulars have more to choose from,” says Tambunting. However, a more serious starter that you can never go wrong with is the foie gras served with grape confit and wine reduction. Seared to perfection, the foie gras serving is generous while the sweet confit accompaniment is just spot on.

M Dining's private dining room

M’s pastas are cooked al dente and a recommendation is to order a couple for the middle to share as starters. The cavatelli with guanciale (cured pork cheek) with a thick and spicy Amatriciana sauce is just so soul gratifying that you have to close your eyes and imagine every flavour tickling your palate. A simple and classic pasta that boils down to just really good ingredients is the tagliolini with a subtly salty Bottarga. The ricotta ravioli drizzled in brown butter and duck flakes, meanwhile, is a superbly rich dish but absolutely worth every calorific bite.

Beef cheeks with polenta, spinach, mushrooms, and port jus

For main courses, the unbelievably tender beef cheeks with polenta, spinach, mushrooms, and port jus (you may order this with foie gras) sets you on a stupendously gluttonous journey that ends with a polished plate. Duck confit purists will certainly want to partake of the duck leg with lentils, another classic perfected in the M kitchen. The seafood standouts on heavy rotation here are the sea bass and grilled prawns with chorizo risotto. Mind you, the chorizo risotto could be a dish all its own.

Almond bread pudding and strawberry pavlova

Desserts are a toss up between the warm chocolate cake with honey ice-cream (such a brilliant combo right there), the light and airy pavlova foiled by fresh and tart strawberries, or the devilishly good bread pudding that is guilt-inducing yet comforting in every way.

These stellar mainstay dishes haven’t gone anywhere for good reason and are largely what helped turn Masseto, along with its consistency and hard-to-beat service, into an institution all its own. As such, Bascon now has worked in his own cooking philosophy to introduce some great new things while essentially complementing what already exists.

Jamón and roasted tomato pizza

“My philosophy,” explains the chef, “has always been simple: First, cook from the heart; second, cook using good quality ingredients, both local and imported that are readily available here now. And then the taste will take care of itself. I truly don’t care for labels or for one of the most overused words to describe food: “fusion.”

“Take Filipino cuisine for example,” Bascon asks, “Do we ever use ‘fusion’ to describe the cuisine, with its interesting array of Malay, Chinese, Spanish/Mexican, and American influences? We don’t. Hence, M Dining will continue its tradition of producing great food, which will be classics alongside dishes with new flavours, cooked with passion and using the best possible ingredients. I envision M Dining’s food to be global in taste and not bound by a particular cuisine.”

And to that, we toast a new year and a new M.