An ode to the fascinating history of Diptyque as the maison celebrates five decades of olfactory artistry

Toeing the line between the traditional and the avant-garde has always been the hallmark of Diptyque’s artistic spirit. Established in the early 1960s by theatre set designer Yves Coueslant, painter Desmond Knox-Leet, and interior designer-architect Christiane Gautrot, the brand, even in its earliest stages, was a culmination of shared values and fine tastes. Their vision fit right in, for it was a period that celebrated innovation and encouraged progressive ideals. Operations started via a chic little bazaar, and later moved to a charming concept store at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris, where they sold unusual, eclectic finds such as fabrics, toys, fine china, and Diptyque’s first-ever scented candles. Despite the volatile unrest that pervaded the times they were living in, the founders quietly sought to revolutionise the world in their own way.

 

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Since 1968, the maison has been tirelessly innovating the way we understand fragrances, treating them not just as scents, but as works of art with distinct personalities. Each product is the result of a harmonious collaboration between the perfumer and illustrator, who must both employ skill and imagination to fully capture the essence of the fragrance. L’Eau, the maison’s first fragrance, was born from an illustration done by Knox-Leet. The scent was a mix of ingredients one might find in an apothecary: clove and cinnamon laced with floral and woodsy notes. Most notable of all, it did not adhere to a gender code; the appeal was universal, speaking to both men and women. This process was later applied to the fragrances that followed in its footsteps, each conceptualised by means of an illustration that would inspire the perfumer, making it an integral part of the total creative framework.

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Above Safia Ouares’ decorative label for Diptyque’s 50th anniversary scent, Tempo, illustrates the forest where patchouli was born and where animals and spirits live freely; the back of the bottle shows swirls of volcano ash that nourish plant life
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To date, Diptyque carries 31 memorable fragrances, divided among five olfactory collections: Floral, Woody, Oriental, Citrus, and Trente-Quatre. The Floral collection brings to mind romance and sensuality with fragrances such as the delicate Olene and the enduring Do Son. One of Diptyque’s 50th anniversary fragrances, the rich and musky Fleur de Peau, is the latest addition to this collection. Fragrances from the Woody collection are earthy and heady; L’Eau Trois is spicy with notes of resin and myrrh, and Vetyverio is uncompromising and unusual.

 

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Above a sketch by Dimitri Rybaltchenko for Diptyque’s Fleur de Peau
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Above Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s watercolours for Fleur de Peau

The aromatic patchouli-laced Tempo, the second anniversary fragrance, belongs to this category. The Oriental collection houses some of Diptyque’s earliest creations, with the original L’Eau being the first. The vanilla bean-inspired Eau Duelle was one of the later additions, alongside the East-meets-West Oud Palao. Classified into the Citrus collection, Oyedo, L’Eau des Hespirides, and L’Eau Neroli, each draws inspiration from fruits and nature. Rounding out the collections is Trente-Quarte, which takes its name from Diptyque’s original address.

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Above The façade of Diptyque’s 34 boulevard Saint-Germain boutique in 1961; the present interiors of the iconic shop

A Diptyque fragrance is no ordinary fragrance. While retaining respect for its heritage, the maison has always had a penchant for the unconventional, ensuring a continued interest among its customers. Each bottled scent is a culmination of art and science, as well as a symbol of the innovative spirit that will keep Diptyque fragrances and scented candles at the top of our wishlists for years to come.

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