My breath never fails to catch as I bask in the glory of familiar sights imbued with fascinating history and staggering beauty, writes Irene Martel Francisco.

Paris immediately captivated my heart when I first visited decades ago. That initial trip with my mother made such a vivid and lasting impression on me, steadily evolving into a consuming love affair with my ultimate “Happy Place”. I go to Paris to be within the powerful embrace of its charms. My breath never fails to catch as I casually turn a corner and find myself basking in the glory of familiar sights imbued with fascinating history and staggering beauty.

The changing seasons offer up the many moods of Paris: abloom with spring flowers and chestnut trees, basking in the heat and sunshine of summer days, soaking in the majesty of fall with its varied hues as the trees shed their foliage, and cloaked in the regal winter white of freshly fallen snow. I love the city best in late May to mid-June. The weather is sheer perfection, with a cool breeze and gentle sunlight. Days seem endless as the last rays of light fade close to 11PM. Autumn is my next favourite time in Paris. October is splendid with its cornucopia of colours and the much colder yet still comfortable wind blowing through the parks.

A fountain on the left Bank

Randy, Isabel, and I take every opportunity we can to visit Paris. I enthusiastically shared my adoration for this city with them and they quickly were enthralled by her many beguiling facets. Our fondest memories are of days spent luxuriously relaxing in the Tuileries gardens or walking through the arcades of the Palais Royal and having a sumptuous Moroccan lunch in the gardens. The Jardin de Luxembourg on the Left Bank is a haven where one can sit and enjoy the sight of families bonding amidst the lush gardens and fountains. We likewise have spent hours in the Champ de Mars, a beautifully laid out park in the residential 7th arrondissement.

A view of the Louvre at night

Paris leaves one spoilt for choice where art is concerned. There are scores of museums and art galleries to view and never enough time to really do them justice. The Louvre contains the most beautiful and riveting pieces of art that spans centuries, set in a palace that was a medieval fortress and became the home to French monarchs. The Musée d’Orsay has a gorgeous collection of Impressionist art with works by masters like Renoir, Manet, Van Gogh, among others.

Then, there are the more intimate scaled museums like the Jacquemart-André which is located near the Champs Elysees. Housed in an opulent 19th- century mansion built by art collectors Edouard André and wife, Nelie Jacquemart, the permanent collection features great works from the Italian Renaissance and 18th century French painters like Fragonard and Botticelli. I love the Musée Marmottan, nestled near the verdant Bois de Boulogne, which has a remarkable permanent collection of 130 paintings of Claude Monet and a large number of works of the Impressionist painter, Berthe Morisot.

Where does one settle in to enjoy Paris? Is it better to opt for a hotel or an apartment? We have stayed in numerous hotels and remain captivated by the Meurice on Rue de Rivoli. The Sofitel Le Faubourg near the luxe shopping street is convenient, as is the new Marquis Faubourg Saint Honoré.

We recently tried apartment-living in Paris in both the 7th and in Saint Germain. Renting from a very reputable company like Paris Perfect (parisperfect.com) takes a lot of guess work out of the equation and allows you to get daily maid service for an additional fee. There is Lisa Burrows-Hutchins (lisa@yourparisexperience.com), a concierge I work with for our restaurant and special bookings, and whom I would engage again with no hesitation. The space and freedom one gets from renting an apartment is precious in that you can have guests over, fix some light meals, and fill your flat with flowers. The benefits of hotel living are the laundry services and twice daily housekeeping. If the thought of doing laundry and tidying up a bit between additional maid visits do not faze you, then perhaps an apartment stay should be considered to have a real people Paris experience.

A sumptuous platter of fruits de mer

Shall we speak of the gloriously delectable food? This defines a trip to Paris and stays on in one’s mind as you indulge in the various temples of gastronomy, be they formal or casual in style. We feast on oysters, foie gras, steak tartare, magret de canard, and carre d’agneau, soufflés, tarte au citron, and baba au rhum! Did I mention cheese? The absolutely divine selection of cheese available from the many fromageries is astounding. The wines that accompany meals, when well chosen, are invariably good although not necessarily costing enough to break the bank.

A café on Rue Cler

There are several restaurants that have become favourites. Among them are La Fontaine de Mars on Rue Saint Dominique, Café Central on Rue Cler, Restaurant 1728 in the former home of the Marquis de Lafayette. Dining here is an unparalleled treat as the owner has maintained the home as close to what it was during the period of the ancien regime but with culinary expertise to match the ambiance. There is Au Petit Sud Ouest which pays homage to cooking duck. I think they have the best raw foie gras in Paris. There are the revered bastions of haute cuisine like Taillevent and Le Grand Véfour in the Palais Royal. One would do well to have the refined Sunday brunch at Un Dimanche à Paris, where everything is an ode to cocoa, in the Cour du Commerce Saint Andre in the 6th.

It is unusual to leave Paris without having done a bit of shopping. I personally love the shops in the Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue du Bac, the Bon Marché department store and its fabulous épicerie next door, the Rue de Sèvres and the small streets near the Church of Saint- Sulpice have tons of wonderful boutiques. The Rue du Commerce in the 15th arrondissement features a good selection of popular though mid-range brand shops.

Place Dauphine

Paris is a place made even more special by Babette Aquino Benoit, a great friend and sister, who always welcomes us to her city. Laughter, closeness, and making memories with loved ones in this magical place are priceless. Quiet times sitting in a café and writing in my journal are quintessentially Paris to me. I zealously guard my private time spent hunting for vintage silver in quaint shops and the marche aux puces. Attending a concert of Vivaldi at the medieval Sainte-Chapelle, grateful for the moments as the early evening sun gleams through the magnificent stained glass windows. Walking through the Place Dauphine and having a meal at an excellent restaurant, savouring this almost private square while watching some men play a game of boule—these precious images are etched in my heart and mind.

Soon it is time to leave and return to my reality, to my home and work that I treasure. A severe wave of separation anxiety and Paris withdrawal syndrome attack me. I know full well that planning and anticipating a return visit to this city of my dreams is the only way to alleviate the pangs of a bittersweet parting.

Read more in the latest edition of Philippine Tatler Traveller, available in any leading newsstands and bookstores. Download the digital version for your device via Magzter and Zinio. | Photos by Randy and Isabel Francisco