We take in the story of a people and a nation at The Museum of African American History and Culture

Thanks to modern air travel and the luck of the weather, I found myself this spring amidst the peak of cherry blossom season in both Tokyo and Washington, D.C.

To start, I helped close our first Milken Institute Japan Symposium on stage with US financier Tom Barrack, Jnr. Our setting: a reception amidst Japanese sakura, arrangements of pink and white cherry blossoms with the Tokyo Tower gleaming in the distance. Days later and an ocean away, I was one of thousands of visitors drawn to the fleeting beauty of Washington’s cherry blossoms.

This latest trip to the US capital city brought me back to the cherry tree-lined Tidal Basin to tape an Asia Minute episode for my YouTube channel with the videographer Jose B Collazo and also to the doors of the latest must-see site in Washington—the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of African American History and Culture (NMAAHC).

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Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of African American History and Culture Architectural Photrography
Above Two icons: a corner of the bronze-clad NMAAHC and the Washington Monument

The NMAAHC is a sight to behold, with or without the now blooming cherry trees providing a dramatic frame. The building’s location and design are said to represent the past, the present, and the future of the African American experience in ways tangible and symbolic.

Located at 1400 Constitution Avenue near the very centre of the National Mall—the long expanse of green space that stretches from the US Capitol building to the towering Washington Monument, to the Lincoln Memorial—this newest of the Smithsonian Institution’s museums was officially opened by US President Barack Obama in September 2016.

Clad in an ornamental bronze-coloured metal lattice, the dramatic and powerful new museum building pays homage to the intricate ironwork crafted by enslaved African Americans in the states of Louisiana, South Carolina, and elsewhere.

It is topped by a corona, inspired by the three-tiered crowns used in Yoruban art from West Africa.

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Above Street-side selfie time: Ambassador Chin and former Obama White House official Saba Qamar en route to the NMAAHC

Lead designer David Adjaye—the son of a Ghanaian diplomat—and lead architect Philip Freelon, together with their architectural team Freelon Adjaye Bond/SmithGroup, provided the building’s winning design.

The NMAAHC also remains one of the hottest tickets in Washington, with free, timed-entry passes obtained often weeks in advance online at www.nmaahc.si.edu. You can also try for same-day entry passes by going online early (6:30 PM), or by visiting the museum after 1:00 PM on a weekday.

I have already been twice—once with Saba Qamar, a former White House official in the Obama Administration, and then with Diane Jones, a longtime friend and former UNICEF executive and assistant to the wife of the UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon. With each visit, it is ever clearer that the United States of America’s story cannot be separated from that of African Americans.

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Like many, I learnt in history class and through television and movies, of the tragedy of a people enslaved for centuries. From the 1500s to the end of the US Civil War, they were enslaved to first work the sugar fields in the Caribbean by Europeans, and then to work the agricultural fields in colonial America followed by cotton farms and plantations in the American South.

On the back of African Americans, a new nation’s wealth was built.

I spent hours going through the 12 permanent exhibition spaces that together tell a people’s story—from the depths of slavery to Abraham Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation, to segregation, to the civil rights movement, and to the election of the first African-American president.

Earlier in Washington, I had visited the Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery to see its commissioned portraits of the 44th US president Barack Obama and of First Lady Michelle Obama by African American artists Kehinda Wiley and Amy Sherald, respectively.

The remarkable new National Museum of African American History and Culture is about adversity. It is about diversity. And it is about an American history still being written.

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Photo 1 of 7 Glimpses from the collections at National Museum of African American History and Culture and the National Portrait Gallery
Photo 2 of 7 Glimpses from the collections at National Museum of African American History and Culture and the National Portrait Gallery
Photo 3 of 7 Glimpses from the collections at National Museum of African American History and Culture and the National Portrait Gallery
Photo 4 of 7 Glimpses from the collections at National Museum of African American History and Culture and the National Portrait Gallery
Photo 5 of 7 Glimpses from the collections at National Museum of African American History and Culture and the National Portrait Gallery
Photo 6 of 7 Glimpses from the collections at National Museum of African American History and Culture and the National Portrait Gallery
Photo 7 of 7 The author pauses in the NMAAHC grand entrance lobby

It is also a celebration of African American culture, community, and contributions, from business to politics and religion, and from civil rights to sports, arts, and of course music—jazz, blues, Motown, and more.

I am moved by an exhibit featuring a dress that seamstress Rosa Parks was working on when she refused to give up her seat on a bus to a white man in 1955. Another moving exhibit shows shards from a stained glass window from the 16th Street Baptist Church bombing in September 1963 in Birmingham, Alabama, which killed four young African American schoolgirls.

These are just some of 37,000 objects in the museum’s collection.

Hanging overhead is a PT-13D Stearman Kadet training aircraft used by the Tuskegee Airmen—a group of African-American military pilots who fought for their nation in World War II even as they were forced to fight discrimination at home.

Music pioneer and “Father of Rock & Roll” Chuck Berry’s red Cadillac El Dorado is on display. So too are dresses from Whitney Houston and Dionne Warwick, the red Starfleet uniform worn by Nichelle Nichols as Lt. Uhura on Star Trek, and Michael Jordan’s Chicago Bulls jersey.

And the boxing gloves and training robe of “The Greatest” Muhammad Ali, as well as an Olympic torch from the 1996 Atlanta games, signed by the American legend and force for change. “I shook up the world!,” Ali once proclaimed, and that quote is now part of a favourite museum display of mine.

If you make it to the NMAAHC before the end of June, take time to see an entire exhibition on one of the most famous African Americans around: Oprah! The special exhibition, Watching Oprah, uses the story of Oprah Winfrey and her ground-breaking daytime television talk show as a lens through which to explore contemporary American history and culture.

As an African-American woman who founded her own media company and became a cultural icon known around the world, Winfrey—the exhibition vividly shows—“harnessed the power of the media to break down barriers, empower herself, and inspire others. ” The exhibition includes items from Harpo Studios in Chicago, home of The Oprah Winfrey Show, for more than 20 years, as well as numerous objects from Winfrey’s personal collection.

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Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of African American History and Culture Architectural Photrography
Above A time for reflection at the Contemplative Court, NMAAHC

A journey through the museum in itself is symbolic. Descend down three floors via escalator and elevator to the Slavery and Freedom exhibition underground. Then work your way upward into the light and to a stunning Contemplative Court. This space for contemplation is a respite from the, at times, heart-wrenching history galleries and features a circular, cascading waterfall with quotes from notable African Americans inscribed on the walls.

There is so much food for thought and food for the soul for Americans and non-Americans alike at the NMAAHC. So don’t leave the museum without one last stop—for some sustenance for your stomach. Outside, food trucks and souvenir stands offer up quick meals and t-shirts. But inside, take a visit to the Sweet Home Café.

Managed as a joint venture by Thompson Hospitality and Restaurant Associates, with the celebrity chef Carla Hall as the culinary ambassador, the 400-seat restaurant showcases the rich culture and history of the African American people with traditional offerings as well as present-day food traditions in four food stations. Gulf shrimp and stone ground grits, as well as Louisiana catfish from the Creole Coast. Lexington-style BBQ pork sandwiches with pickled watermelon rind, and slow-cooked collards from the Agricultural South. “Smoking hot” Caribbean-style pepper pot from the Northern states. These are just some of the delicious offerings not to be missed. I order up some buttermilk fried chicken with waffles, while my friend Diane Jones tries the duck, andouille, and crawfish gumbo. And we are in agreement—delicious! This must be one of the best museum restaurants in town.

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Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of African American History and Culture Architectural Photrography
Above A peek into the exhibition A Changing America: 1968 and Beyond
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Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of African American History and Culture Architectural Photrography
Above A peek into the exhibition A Changing America: 1968 and Beyond

Then, it is back outside, our museum visit over. Our minds and bodies nourished. Cherry blossoms or not. Whatever the season, history is in full bloom at the NMAAHC.

Credits

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Curtis Chin & Diane Jones

Images  

Harpo, Inc./George Burns; Alan Karchmer; Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture