Curtis Chin traces stories from times past and remembers communications pioneer, Harold Burson
“Ever walked down a street, looked up, been surprised by what you saw and stopped? That just happened as I caught sight of the Lorraine Motel here in Memphis.”
So I wrote—and Tweeted—after arriving in February 2020 at the appropriately named Arrive Memphis, a new boutique hotel on South Main Street that is helping re-energise this city’s redeveloped south side, characterised by old brick buildings and former factories.
It was Day One of a whirlwind three-day trip to the American South, and I had just spotted the iconic sign of the old Lorraine Motel—site of the assassination of the Reverend Martin Luther King, Jr on that terrible day of April 4, 1968. The building and the sign are now part of The National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel.
DAY ONE - MEMPHIS &MLK ON OUR MIND
With a population of 650,000, Memphis is the largest city along the Mississippi River and the second-most populous in Tennessee, after Nashville.
While the city will be forever linked to the civil rights movement, it is, however, also an American music and culinary destination. Think Memphis-style BBQ—slow-smoked pork ribs cooked in a dry rub of seasonings and crafted into a meal that’s delicious with or without the sauce.
Within two hours of arriving at the Memphis International Airport, meeting up with former colleague and event producer extraordinaire Barbara Levy to rent a car and checking into the Arrive Memphis, it was off across the street to Central BBQ in the South Main Arts District for a first delicious taste of the city.
From there, it was a few minutes’ walk to the Lorraine Motel sign, now also displaying King’s iconic words, “I have a dream.” In addition to preserving the façade of the historic Lorraine Motel, the National Civil Rights Museum offers visitors the solemn opportunity to see Room 306, where King spent his final hours. A wreath also marks the spot on the motel balcony where he was assassinated.
For much of the rest of the day, Barbara and I were immersed in the museum’s galleries, watching, reading and learning. Films, oral histories, interactive media, artefacts and exhibits tell the story of the American Civil Rights Movement, from the 17th century to the present. It is also a story of an American journey toward justice that is far from complete—as the Black Lives Matter protests of 2020, following the horrific killings of Breonna Taylor, George Floyd and others, would make all too clear.