This family trip to turkey not only inspired a thirst for history but a hunger for all its distinctive flavours

It was outside the Hagia Sophia that we had our first taste of Turkey—a sign that there was a lot to look forward to when it comes to food. A cluster of snack vendors on Sultanahmet Square had drawn our attention but my mother and I followed the sweet, smoky scent of chestnuts. We were in Turkey right before the holidays and the perfectly roasted chestnuts were enough to spark my appetite for the rest of our trip.

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Above Ana enjoying the spectacular view in Göreme

Such simple but satisfying fare followed as we made our way to Cappadocia, which felt like a different planet altogether. Among rock formations the colour of millennial pink, Bronze Age cave dwellers had carved out conical homes that are still in use to this day. Invited into one of these homes by an elderly couple, we kept warm over servings of apple tea, a staple beverage that Turkish people drink infinite glasses of throughout the day. Vibrantly patterned carpets and textiles could be seen around their home, underscoring the great imagination I observed in the country’s crafts and ultimately, its food.

From towering rock homes, we later found ourselves underground in the ancient town of Goreme. Around the time of the Hittite era, natives to the land avoided the war between Greeks and Persians by building a subterranean city. This city included everything from a church to an actual winery where containers had been moulded from rocks. The ingenuity of people from this region was apparent, reflective also in the meal we would enjoy while taking in Cappadocia’s breathtaking mountain range. Whether it was freshly baked flatbreads that came with delicious olive oil to sop up and spices to dip them into, or mushrooms stuffed with cheese, herbs, and sun-dried tomatoes, dishes were uncomplicated yet distinctive.

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Above Pamukkale or the Cotton Castle famous for its healing thermal baths
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Above The author by The House of Virgin Mary in Ephesus

Southwestern Turkey was our next stop where we walked through ancient cities such as Pergamon and Ephesus. Mehmet, our guide in the Selçuk province, noted one famous resident, the Virgin Mary, who was known to have spent her last days in the area. Ruins were the most well-preserved I’ve seen. We walked through what was once Ephesus’ main road lined with shops of the past and the homes of the wealthy, each boasting micro-tiled floors and vivid wall murals. Besides the ornate temples to Greek gods and grandiose colosseums, archaeologists had also dug up communal baths and latrines that shed light on the communal culture so prominent during those days. Of course, enduring the cold and soaking up all this history can make one hungry, leading to a stopover at a local Pide restaurant where the Turkish had made a version of pizza that included toppings like ground lamb and cheese, or a sweeter variant made with tahini.

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Above Traditional breakfast called Menemem at the Four Seasons Istanbul
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Above Lunch of fried sardines in Izmire

Throughout our trip, the natural beauty of Turkey’s topography—whether it was the majestic white travertine terraces and mineralrich baths at Pamukkale or Cappadocia’s otherworldly mountains—was often matched by the simple yet spirited dishes that make up Turkish cuisine. Once we returned to Istanbul, we were treated to the rich diversity of these dishes, from ubiquitous kebap (prepared arguably better than its Persian counterpart), to sea bass freshly caught from the Bosphorus, to the Turkish Anatolian cuisine of Mikla, which earned itself Michelin recognition and offers the best spot to enjoy a cocktail while staring out at a soul-bracing view of the city. Among Turkey’s staples, however, the most famous is baklava, the mother lode of which are prepared by Karaoköy Güllüoglu, which has been in business for over 200 years. Though tourists have thinned since the 2016 coup d’etat, Turkish folk and foreigners alike come in droves to stock up on boxes of the honeyed, pistachio-topped treat. Baklava (conveniently packaged) also makes for great gifting, though air-packed spices and teas bought from dizzying markets like the Grand Bazaar are also notable.

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Above The Dolmabahce Palace has the largest collection of Bohemian and Baccarat crystal chandeliers in the world
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Above The Great Theater in Ephesus; a dose of Turkish coffee

Aykut was more than happy to take us to the restaurants that he himself frequented along with other locals. Perhaps the most memorable of our meals was at an unfussy spot right by the Bosphorus on our last morning in Istanbul. As boats passed, seagulls flew by, and sea breeze beckoned, Aykut described ingredients to our favourites such as a tomato-based egg dish called menemen, similar to shakshuka, and fresh cheese fried in a skillet called hellim peyniri. Unforgettable by far was the bal kaymak, a pairing of clotted cheese and honey that we wish we could have filled a tub with and taken home with us. As we took our last sips of rich Turkish coffee, we relished memories of the archaeological sites we visited and relived all the bites that dotted this journey. While Italy and France are top-of-mind destinations when it comes to food, history, and culture, it will be hard not to include Turkey among these. And given all the holy sites this place has become home to, denying ourselves future trips to Turkey might even be considered sacrilege.

Photos: Ana De Ocampo

This story was originally published in Philippine Tatler Traveller (Volume 13), available in all newsstands and book stores, and downloadable on Magzter, Zinio, and PressReader.

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