Cover Meknes is city in northern Morocco that has a huge gate with arches and mosaic tiling

Though one of the most enduring images of Morocco is the black-and-white heartache depicted in the film "Casablanca", we managed to kick our trip off in the most colourful way.

My first memorable taste of this North African country was of the tartly sweet pomegranates from a roadside vendor. Theywere the largest I had everseen, with each mouthful of its ruby-red seeds bursting with flavour. Those bites revealed a bit of Morocco’s character, where even on a dusty dirt road in Fez, one can discover something as precious as a jewel.

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Above The author at Palais Royal, the palace of the sultan in Fez

There was something about this country that summoned you to step outside and come face-to-face with all of its vibrancy. This began with the beautifully tiled courtyard of the Hotel Palais Faraj, where my family and I were billeted for the next couple of nights. Of course, our local guide Khalida, a force of nature, was never going let us stay behind hotel walls. On that first day, we were immediately shoved toward the sights, sounds, and smells of Morocco through Fez’s historic medina. A UNESCO World Heritage Site devoid of cars, the medina confronted our senses through its central souk, filled with narrow streets lined with stalls. It was hard to look away from the mishmash of artisan crafts, spices, and exotic ingredients. There were paper-thin flatbreads steamed on cast-iron cylinders; gigantic snails crawling out of tall baskets and glasses of piping-hot mint tea crammed with leaves. The produce on offer grew more and more provocative as we rode the flood of people through the market’s maze, the most outrageous of which was a large camel head hanging by a hook.

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Above The entrance of Palais Fraj Suites in Fez

As the second largest city of Morocco, it wasn’t hard to imagine that Fez’s central market had to accommodate a wide variety of needs. It just so happened that the country’s most famed goods were made expertly in this city, from its infinite selection of Berber rugs to leather accessories produced in a tannery from the 11th century. However, Khalida knew that my sister Marge and I run restaurants in the Philippines. As a proud and aggressive cook herself, she was determined to show us the best of Moroccan cuisine, and she upheld that her hometown, Marrakech, was a city that offered the best of what we were looking for.

When we made our way to one of Africa’s busiest cities the following day, we were immediately drawn in by the flush of pinks on many of its buildings—the shades of a sunrise filled with possibility. This was the feeling we got as we checked into the awe-inspiring La Mamounia, a hotel that offered palatial riads as accommodations, all of which were surrounded by well-manicured gardens. Our welcome at the hotel foreshadowed the culinary adventure that was to come. We were served glasses of fresh milk delightfully accented by orange blossom water—a reminder that the most unforgettable flavours arose from the simplest of ingredients.

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It was hard to look away from the mishmash of artisan crafts, spices, and exotic ingredients

Ana de Ocampo

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Above Argan oil-making at the Atlas Mountains
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Above Colourful tagines at a market in Marrakech

Though our riad at Mamounia enticed us with a private pool nestled in a courtyard and offered a view of the hotel’s sweeping orange grove, there was no time to waste. The next few days in Marrakech provided us a refined touch of Moroccan cuisine. A festive assortment of tiny tagines started us off at Dar Moha, each a tasty salad drumming up anticipation for the restaurant’s celebrated tangia: a stew of fall-off-the-bone lamb slowcooked in a traditional urn. It was hard to get tired of dishes presented from a tagine, the funnel-shaped earthenware used in Moroccan cooking. Each unveiling felt special, especially via the maternal warmth at Al Fassia, a restaurant run mainly by women. The restaurant’s plush, candlelit dining room only heightened our appreciation for its heavenly couscous and a chicken tagine sweetened subtly by caramelied onions and raisins.

A visit to Marrakech would be incomplete without a visit to the Jemaa el Fna, the largest square in the city’s medina and gateway to its legendary souk. Amid the chaotic whirl of street food stalls and the spectacle of snake charmers and flame eaters, Khalida led us to a spot the locals frequent for méchoui. Lowered into a pit are whole lambs or goats, which are then roasted to perfection. Accompanied by freshly baked bread, the méchoui was the best meat we tasted on this trip.

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Above Le Jardin Marjovelle, a two and a half-acre botanical garden and artist’s landscape garden in Marrakech

Once again, Morocco reminded us that the most rewarding tastes came from the unlikeliest of places. We found this to be true when we headed for the Atlas Mountains the following day, where numerous Berber villages stood. On the backs of mules, we ascended bumpily through the mountain passage up to where homes made from reddened earth were perched on cliffs. Here, we were met by a Berber family who motioned us happily into their home. Within were bare essentials and a flourish of colourfully patterned rugs, but they revealed to us a wealth many can only dream of. From their balcony, we beheld the most astounding view of the valley below and the snowcapped mountains in the distance.

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Photo 1 of 10 The souks in Morocco offer a variety of fruits and souvenirs including fresh olives, cactus fruit, snails, handmade ceramics, and pomegranates; having lunch at the souk is a must
Photo 2 of 10 The souks in Morocco offer a variety of fruits and souvenirs including fresh olives, cactus fruit, snails, handmade ceramics, and pomegranates; having lunch at the souk is a must
Photo 3 of 10 The souks in Morocco offer a variety of fruits and souvenirs including fresh olives, cactus fruit, snails, handmade ceramics, and pomegranates; having lunch at the souk is a must
Photo 4 of 10 The souks in Morocco offer a variety of fruits and souvenirs including fresh olives, cactus fruit, snails, handmade ceramics, and pomegranates; having lunch at the souk is a must
Photo 5 of 10 The souks in Morocco offer a variety of fruits and souvenirs including fresh olives, cactus fruit, snails, handmade ceramics, and pomegranates; having lunch at the souk is a must
Photo 6 of 10 Ana in Volubilis, an excavated Berber city in Fez
Photo 7 of 10 A room at Palais Faraj Suites Hotel;
Photo 8 of 10 voted as the most beautiful hotel pool in the world: the pool of La Mamounia
Photo 9 of 10 The author and sister Margie, having meloui bread in the Atlas Mountains
Photo 10 of 10 At the Medina in Fez

A performance in itself, our hosts prepared mint tea before us, which involved muddling leaves and multiple pourings to infuse the flavours. The refreshing sweet tea paired well with the crisp mountain air and the scent of skillet bread made by our host’s wife, Jamila. While gathering around a low table, we used this bread to swab at jam and freshly churned butter, chatting joyously as we took in the view. As simple as this snacking was, each bite felt like a privilege. It wasn’t hard to see why the lovely Jamila always had the warmest, widest smile on her face. In Morocco, art was part of the everyday, whether it was the pattern on an intricately cut lantern or hints of colourful spice bubbling in a tagine. With the overflow of tastes and sights available to you, you could feel like a queen.