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Nearly a quarter of a century since it was first staged, this unique floral festival continues to entice domestic and foreign tourists to the City of Pines

It's a celebration that began as a way of boosting a city's morale as it struggled to rise from the devastation inflicted by a powerful earthquake. Today, 24 years on, it is considered one of the greatest festivals in the Philippines and one that has done a great deal in boosting the tourism sector in Baguio City.

Baguio was certainly in full bloom on 2 and 3 March 2019 as Session Road was once more turned into a floral spectacle for the 24th Panagbenga Festival. Nearly two million tourists lined the sidewalks over the two-day affair, marvelling at the energetic grace of Baguio's best street dance groups on the 2nd and the creative splendour of the floral float parade on the 3rd.

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Above A young dancer swirls her cloak with a grand flourish

It is hard to believe that this massive affair began with just three carretelas decked out with local blossoms when it was first staged in 1995. At the time, Baguio City was still reeling from the aftermath of the 1990 Luzon earthquake that levelled 28 buildings, including the Hyatt Terraces Hotel, and left scores of residents and tourists dead in its wake.

Held around the time of year when many plants would be in bloom, it was meant to be a celebration of survival and resilience at a time when the world awakened from the chill and barrenness of winter to the warmth and growth of spring. The name itself, Panagbenga, is a word in the indigenous Kankanaey tongue that means "a time for blossoming" - and, indeed, the festival helped spearhead a rebirth for the City of Pines.

Today, it is considered one of the Philippines's biggest cultural events and the largest non-religious festival in the country. Many have compared it to the annual Tournament of Roses in Pasedena, CA or to the colourful excitement of the Carnaval de Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.

Likewise, it has certainly contributed a great deal to the reconstruction of Baguio City, as well as its further development over the past two decades, thanks to its impact on the local and provincial economy.

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Above The official Baguio City float features native motifs, huge sunflowers, and a wealth of native flora
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Above Baguio belles wave from atop the official float of the Department of Tourism

"The [Panagbenga Festival] has contributed to the tourism industry of our city," says Baguio City mayor Mauricio Domogan. "You will note that there were more people who attended [the float parade] than the [street dance parade.] You can just imagine if all these people eat at many of the restaurants and buy souvenirs - that's already a big contribution to the local economy. If we did not have the Panagbenga, I do not think we could draw [such large numbers] of people to come here."

But more than just a major draw for tourists, Panagbenga also celebrates the culture and traditions of the indigenous peoples of the Cordillera Region. For them, it is a time to take pride in local crafts and customs, as seen in events such as the Ili ay Cordillera cultural village at Camp John Hay which captures elements of local village life. Native costumes are visible everywhere in Baguio and even those not brave enough to wear the traditional bahag [men's loincloth] or tapis [women's fabric wrap skirt] are seen sporting outfits made with locally woven fabric in customary colours.Artists' collectives host gallery openings or participate in group exhibitions and public performances. Schoolchildren and civic groups actively rehearse their routines and come up with magnificent costumes inspired by flowers, characters out of native legend, or even modern pop culture.

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Above The Cordillera Region does its part in the DOT's "It's More Fun in the Philippines" campaign

Blooming Forward, the theme for this year's festival, says a lot about the people of Baguio. They are a proud and noble people who have risen to the challenge of rebuilding a city that many people - from both here and abroad - had given up as lost given the magnitude of the destruction that happened to it. They are a people who are proud of their culture and are doing everything that they can in order to preserve it and to promote it to a new generation. But they are also people who believe in using community power to get a point across.

 

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Above The Panagbenga has been likened to the annual Tournament of Roses or the Carnevale thanks to the colourful costumes worn by youngsters

While many of the floats are now produced by corporate entities and commercial establishments, they still play up the use of endemic flora or, at the very least, locally grown blooms in their presentations. There have been politicians and celebrities who have come to steal the festival's thunder, but it's still the beauty of the flowers and the enthusiasm of the dancers that linger in the minds of visitors long after the excitement has died down. And now, as it prepares to celebrate its 25th year, the Panagbenga Festival continues to stand as a living embodiment of the people of the Cordilleras: proud, noble, creative, and resilient.

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Photography  

Marga Manlapig

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