The House of RT Paras remains a persuasive force today, and in her time, Josefina Paras Gonzales took the lead with the precise panache of her clothes. Her son, Roy, continues the legacy
This feature story was originally titled as The House of Style, and was published in the January 2008 issue of Tatler Philippines
The date book of the Atelier House of RT Paras shows a photograph of the philanthropist and style icon Imelda Cojuangco fitting a dress by the couturière Josefina Tayag Paras-Gonzales. The letter is clad in her signature work wear—a house dress, her bumblebee glasses, chunky earrings and bracelets, and slippers. Today, her son, the Paris-trained couturier, Roy Gonzales, still enjoys the patronage of Ms Cojuangco. He shows a white brocade cocktail dress with a pouf hemline and matching cap sleeves. The inside of the dress is just as polished of the fabric. This is the secret of stylish women—classic and artisanal clothes. In a world of throwaway or cheap chic, bespoke dressmaking still remains a compelling influence because it gives distinction in construction and technique. To discriminating women accustomed to quality, having clothes custom-made at the House of RT Paras is a necessity more than a luxury.
Despite the popularity of ready-to-wear or fashions with planned obsolescence (as in "that dress was sooo five minutes ago"), made-to-measure clothing endures in providing women with an ideal of the well-made garment that can be created.
The House of RT Paras is 106 years old, the oldest fashion atelier in the country today. Behind a successful son was the hand that rocked the cradle, Josefina, known as Inang, the prime mover of the atelier.
CHANNELLING CHANEL
Josefina was dubbed "the Chanel of the Philippines." Gonzales says the moniker was given by a French airline executive who was impressed by her atelier. Like Coco Chanel, Inang had penetrated the male-dominated fashion scene. On the other hand, Clarita Paras, Gonzales's aunt and business partner, explains that Inang was given that sobriquet because the customer usually received a perfect fit accomplished only by meticulous methods of cutting and fitting to her body.
Inang was one of the few influential Filipinos in fashion to recognise one of the most important changes of the 20th century. Women wanted elegance in line, cut, and detail. She believed that women should feel comfortable in what they wore because it made them feel more confident. Many loyal clients, especially with problem figures, say that only the House of RT Paras could understand their needs. The clothes made them look taller or thinner or gave them shapelier waists and shoulders or smaller hips.