How Chanel Beauty uses science in its skincare creations

Through years of research, Chanel has determined the relationship between skin health and well‐being based on neuroscience technologies—and it has the products to prove it

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel once said: “Beauty treatments should begin with the heart and soul. Otherwise, cosmetics are pointless”. The Chanel founder had strived to encourage women to feel powerful and confident about their bodies so that they could be themselves. In 1921, she famously expanded her influence from fashion to beauty with the launch of the iconic Chanel No 5 fragrance. As such, the house of Chanel has remained faithful to the vision of its founder to meet the needs of women so they would feel represented in their quest for beauty and well‐being.

The success of the fragrance paved the way for the maison to offer a more comprehensive beauty line. Over the years, Chanel has continued to innovate in the beauty
industry, introducing a wide range of skincare and make‐up products.

In November last year, Tatler Singapore was invited to make a rare visit to Chanel’s beauty research and innovation facility in Pantin, a suburb in Paris, to go behind the scenes and get an overview of its integrative beauty strategy. During this exclusive global event, participants discovered how the brand has been conducting research over the years to discover the relationship between skin health and well‐being based on neuroscience technologies.

Above Sensoriality is at the heart of the development of Chanel skincare products.

Today, these technologies make it possible to decode the emotions activated when applying a beauty product, to ensure a sensorial experience. At the Pantin event,
participants got to experience this first‐hand with the Chanel Sublimage L’Extrait de Nuit serum. The enveloping and honey‐like texture of the serum changes upon
application and is easily absorbed, leaving it velvety to the touch and feeling comfortable on the skin.

“Sensoriality is essential in the development of Chanel skincare products. The formulators work with experts from the Sensorial Evaluation Laboratory to develop highly sensorial formulas that awaken the senses and provide pleasure as soon as they’re applied,” shared Armelle Souraud, Chanel’s international scientific communications director. “This includes silky, voluptuous textures that provide comforting or refreshing sensations.”

The L’Extrait de Nuit treatment is enriched with a complex of active ingredients with repairing powers extracted from the Himalayan swertia, which acts in synergy with polyfractioned Vanilla Planifolia. Featuring a high concentration of active ingredients, its unique formula helps regenerate skin and accelerate its natural repair mechanisms, which are more intense at night than during the day. According to an evaluation done by Chanel, this allows the skin to look rejuvenated and rested—just like getting eight hours of sleep.

Above This tool developed by University of Besançon makes it possible to analyse, via brain mapping, which areas of the brain are activated when we experience different emotions, as well as study the brain waves that are characteristic of certain emotions.

During the visit, Chanel also showcased its collaboration with the University of Besançon, which developed a tool to measure emotions through the evolution of electroencephalogram technology. Beauty enthusiasts understand the relationship between emotion and make‐up or skincare very well—for instance, that feeling of joy and satisfaction when one comes in contact with their favourite cream, which not only feels luscious, but also smells enticing.

This tool makes it possible to analyse, via brain mapping, which areas of the brain are activated when we experience different emotions, as well as study the brain waves that are characteristic of certain emotions. As part of the programme, a live demonstration was conducted to show how this works and it was a captivating insight into the way people immediately respond to beauty products once applied, whether it is a rich moisturiser or a buttery smooth lipstick.

The formulators at Chanel’s laboratories work closely with its Sensory Evaluation Laboratory to determine the sensory profile of each formula according to multiple characteristics: the sensation in the hand, the fluidity and consistency of the texture, its glide aspect and its absorption speed upon application, as well as the feeling of hydration post‐application. These criteria are then tested directly by a panel of women in the Sensory Evaluation Laboratory, where objective measurements are carried out following precise protocols that allow reproducible results to be obtained over time. Thanks to a statistical analysis, the resulting sensory profiles make it possible to identify and understand the differences and/or similarities between two formulas, to select the one that corresponds to the expected sensorial experience. Chanel’s research team thus actively translates these emotions felt at the sight or application of the product, and their intensity.

Above The integrated beauty event by Chanel at its beauty research and innovation facility in Pantin, France.

The concept of well‐being generally includes both cognitive and emotional factors. A combination of strong positive emotions, a feeling of satisfaction and weak negative emotions could characterise it. And sleep quality is, among other things, one of the most important factors.

Over the years, Chanel’s research team has built a body of scientific expertise on how the skin behaves during the night, supported by studies that have resulted in numerous scientific publications and communications. For example, in 2008, the team observed and provided precise analyses of the effects of sleep deprivation on the skin, beauty and well‐being, at a research centre that specialises in neuroscience.

Thanks to all these studies, Chanel Research determined that night‐time plays a key role in the maintenance of skin health—it is when the skin actively regenerates. By studying the impact of beauty routines on skin quality, as well as sleep quality, Chanel developed and optimised its range of night‐time skincare products that also offer a sensorial experience.

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Tatler Asia

How Chanel uses science and research to explore the relationship between skin health and well‐being