Beauty buyers are getting more and more drawn towards science-backed products with proven results (Photo: Getty Images)
Cover Beauty buyers are getting more and more drawn towards science-backed products with proven results (Photo: Getty Images)

More consumers are turning to medically backed skincare brands over ones founded by their favourite stars. Here we look at what’s behind this shift in trends

When Kylie Jenner launched Kylie Cosmetics in 2015 with three liquid lipsticks, the products famously sold out in seconds and crashed the brand’s website, making the youngest Jenner sister a beauty mogul overnight. Since then, celebrities have been jumping on to the bandwagon and churning out beauty brands one after another. Not only are female stars sashaying into the beauty industry—from Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty to Hailey Bieber’s Rhode Skin—the men of Tinseltown are also getting in on the action: there is Brad Pitt’s Le Domaine Skincare, and of course, Pharrell Williams’ Humanrace.

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In fact, according to a 2023 Bloomberg report, more than 50 celebs, from the world of entertainment, such as Kim Kardashian, to sports, like tennis player Naomi Osaka, have launched their own brands with varying degrees of favourable reception. While some like Fenty Beauty have achieved astronomical success—Forbes reported that Fenty was worth US$2.8 billion in 2021—not all have been able to replicate this level of triumph.

However, since the Covid-19 pandemic, a time in which the world collectively paid more attention to medical advice than ever before, there’s been a shift in consumer preferences. Now, beauty buyers are getting less drawn to big names and opting for science-backed products with proven results instead. The pandemic also disrupted some clinical treatments, which nudged people towards seeking professional expertise from the beauty products they use at home in order to maintain the results they’re used to; thus giving rise to skincare brands founded or recommended by doctors as they are perceived to be more recognised and validated by medical science, and therefore believed to be more trustworthy and effective. Hong Kong-based dermatologist Dr Carmen Lam of SKIIN Medical and Aesthetic Dermatology clinic says another contributing factor might be because “buyers nowadays educate themselves and do their homework thoroughly on the internet before buying anything”. And when products backed by professionals come with data to support their safety and effects, they become the ones to rise above others backed only by claims from a celebrity.

Indeed, this trend is proving itself in numbers: according to market research agency NielssonIQ, La Roche-Posay, a brand commonly recommended by dermatologists across 34 countries, became the fastest-growing skincare brand in the US in 2022.

Dr Barbara Sturm, the German skincare scientist whose 360ᵒ Dr Barbara Sturm clinical experience for skin health debuted in Asia exclusively at Asaya of Rosewood Hong Kong in November last year, also makes a strong case for doctor-led beauty products: “Everything we claim, we can support with clinical studies,” she says in an interview with Tatler in 2017. And Dr Barbara Sturm isn’t the only professional in the skincare industry whose brand is built around providing consumers products they can trust.

“We have eliminated more than 1,650 ingredients due to concerns about their potential toxicity, safety and ability to harm or irritate skin,” said Carrie Gross, co-founder and CEO of dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross’ eponymous brand during a meet-and-greet with the media in Hong Kong in March 2023. “And we vet all our formulas with comprehensive laboratory, clinical and safety studies before we bring them to you.”

Not just doctors, but scientists too have put their stamp of approval on skincare brands. For example, niche US-based skincare brand Noble Panacea, which was founded by Nobel Laureate scientist Sir Fraser Stoddart in 2019. Sir Stoddart’s innovation, the Organic Super Molecular Vessel (OSMV) technology—which stems from his work on molecular motion—forms the backbone of his skincare line and is unique to his products. Equally revered is the Augustinus Bader skincare brand, which came about as a by-product of scientist Augustinus Bader’s research into finding a way to heal burns without surgery or skin grafting. The products are thought to be so effective that even celebrities with their own skincare brands are fans; including Jennifer Aniston (founder of beauty brand LolaVie) who posted an Instagram story in 2022 that showed an Augustinus Bader skincare product sitting on her vanity.

Even though according to a Bloomberg Intelligence survey of 650 cosmetics and skincare users in January this year, “celebrity’s backing doesn’t matter to a majority of female shoppers”, that’s not to say that some celebrity-backed brands are not worth the hype. Especially when it comes to complexion products like foundations, concealers and blushes. In fact, some of these labels enjoy a very loyal fan base, such as Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty or Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty. With Rare Beauty, Gomez personally demonstrates how her products work on people of her complexion through step-by-step beauty tutorials on Instagram. (Bonus: she donates a portion of annual profits to Rare Impact Fund, a mental health charity she launched.)

Meanwhile, Fenty Beauty shattered any excuse for limited ranges when it launched in 2017 and right off the bat charged into the beauty industry with 40 inclusive foundation shades. Influencers from opposite ends of the skin colour spectrum who often have trouble finding their shade, from John Maclean whose skin might as well be alabaster to Nyma Tang with her near-ebony skin tone, tested Fenty’s Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation and finally found their perfect match.

Whether shoppers are going for doctor or celeb-back brands, informed and educated choices are at the heart of their decisions as consumers increasingly seek to understand the products they choose to use. Perhaps that’s why doctor-led brands are now doing so well, as they share that same sentiment: “We want to do more for the consumer than just sell them a product. We like to arm them with education so they can understand what is happening with their skin, why it is happening and how to correct it,” says Gross.

Of course, good products that work is what every beauty consumer ultimately wants for their skincare routine, but that often comes with trial and error. Don’t take our word for it: “Even the best product might not be the best for everyone,” says Dr Lam. “Understand what your skin needs first and see if the ingredients in the products match those needs. Consult your dermatologist if you’re in doubt. It doesn’t matter if a product has the top-notch ingredients, if it doesn’t work on your skin, you’ll just have wasted your money and time.”

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