It’s all too easy to forget, amidst the current market sentiments, that the watch industry has experienced a number of years of tremendous growth. This unprecedented expansion has driven brands to widen their portfolios, showcasing their creative and technical know-how.

Some though, such as Panerai, have taken a much longer term approach, and while they were producing new watches as well, they tended to focus on their core collections, the argument being that luxury timepieces need to stand the test of time, and that a watch that was presented a few years ago is still just as desirable as the one unveiled last week. So when Panerai decides to veer ever so slightly from this approach, it’s bound to catch our attention.

Over the years, Panerai has built its foundations on two main pillars, the Radiomir and the Luminor collections. While the first has its core followers, who appreciate the slightly less voluminous proportions, the Luminor is, arguably, the one that watch connoisseurs far and wide would immediately identify with the brand.

The Luminor’s crown guard, in particular, is such a distinctive characteristic that it has been used as the door handle for the The Luminor’s crown guard, in particular, is such a distinctive characteristic that it has been used as the door handle for the maison’s boutiques. However, the Luminor, in any of its existing case sizes, has always been a sportier, thicker design, one that does not easily lend itself to more formal wear, or

The Luminor’s crown guard, in particular, is such a distinctive characteristic that it has been used as the door handle for the maison’s boutiques. However, the Luminor, in any of its existing case sizes, has always been a sportier, thicker design, one that does not easily lend itself to more formal wear, or The Luminor’s crown guard, in particular, is such a distinctive characteristic that it has been used as the door handle for the maison’s boutiques.

However, the Luminor, in any of its existing case sizes, has always been a sportier, thicker design, one that does not easily lend itself to more formal wear, or The Luminor’s crown guard, in particular, is such a distinctive characteristic that it has been used as the door handle for the maison’s boutiques. However, the Luminor, in any of its existing case sizes, has always been a sportier, thicker design, one that does not easily lend itself to more formal wear, or simply to slender wrists. Panerai has now addressed this with the addition of the Luminor Due collection.

At first glance, the Luminor’s distinctive characteristics are all present: the cushion shaped case with a round bezel, prominent lugs, and, most importantly, the iconic crown guard. Take a look from the side though, and the Luminor Due’s case shows you an almost svelte profile, certainly when compared with its Luminor siblings.

It’s not until you put it on the wrist, particularly if you’re familiar with the “regular” Luminor watches, that you truly appreciate the Luminor Due’s design and appeal as a more elegant, almost stealthy Panerai. It disappears easily under your cuff, although the crown guard is almost always visible and an easily identifiable clue as to which watch you’re wearing.

There are two sizes on offer, one with a 45mm case and the automatic P.4000/10 caliber, the other with a 42mm case and the manual winding P.1000/10 caliber. Both are presented in either stainless steel with a black sun-brushed dial, or in 18K red gold with an anthracite sun-brushed dial. The red gold watches also see their movements semi-skeletonized, and the small seconds sub dial sunken rather than flush with the main dial.

The fact that the Luminor Due is easily identified as a Panerai, even if you don’t see the name on the dial, speaks well of the design cues that the maison has maintained in the new collection. As befitting the Panerai tradition, this does not, in any way, replace an existing watch in the collection; on the contrary, it serves to widen the occasions in which a Panerai is likely to be chosen for the day, and perhaps it will also add to the ranks of the ever passionate Paneristi collector’s community.