Pleats reign supreme

Feminine, delicate, sexy, or glamorous, pleats are everywhere this season, in enough variations to suit all styles and tastes. The result? An incredible array of choices on the catwalk. Fendi leaned towards fluid, asymmetrical pleated skirts to soften lines that were almost authoritarian, while Alberta Ferretti looked to long pleated dresses with sexy cutouts to express strength and glamour. At Annakiki, pleats carried messages, giving an impression of imperfection. Longchamp distinguished itself with graphic pleated dresses accentuated by ribbons and metallic rivets created with modern rebels in mind. Having already been a major trend this summer, pleats will continue to be center-stage in the ready-to-wear lines for another season.

Bows, in XXL versions

Fashion addicts have also have bows to consider this season. They were incorporated with collars, busts, and shoulders in the most refined of ways. However, they're anything but discreet, showing up in XXL versions and lending a sense of strength and character to the clothes. Adorning collars, they brought retro style to Vaquera, chic to Blumarine and a 1980s vibe to MSGM. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello worked closely with proportions. Kaia Gerber wore an asymmetric minidress with diagonal stripes and an enormous bow to accentuate the shoulders at the show on February 26, a detail that brought strength to the overall look. At Fendi, the bow brought an elegant, modern touch, whether perfectly knotted on a high-collared shirt or on the back of blazers, dresses and coats.