Later at Shrimps, where she was hired as a design assistant, Kwan got to see the commercial side of the industry. “It’s important to get experience from different parts of the industry; [there were] so many definitive moments,” she reflects. “That made a tremendous difference to my work ethic, and how I handle things—nothing beats learning from the world, the real real real world, you know?”

Her eponymous brand stays true to her identity. Kwan’s creative process often starts with gathering concepts and ideas from personal experiences, researching her own pictures, and collaging her drawings. “How I get through my prints and my silhouettes is just sitting down and drawing, experimenting with colours and different materials,” she explains, “and then actually draping on the body; then that’s how the collection organically happened.”

While Kwan’s last collection paid tribute to her mother’s always glamorous, and deliberate style, the sneak peek she gives Tatler of the drawings for her upcoming spring-summer 2024 collection to be presented at Paris Fashion Week in a few weeks’ have a very different muse. “[The collection] ‘Bitch Stole My Look’ is my love letter to dogs,” she says. “It’s basically a collection that celebrates the loving relationship between a woman and her pet dog. It’s inspired by memories from living with dogs all my life and the happiness that they have brought me.”

While dogs inspire the aesthetic of the collection, there’s a practicality, too. “I want to question why these clothes for women can’t be functional and fun at the same time, by imagining that they are tailored for dog walkers,” she explains, the excitement palpable in her voice. “So this could mean a pocket to put your puppy in, or a skirt that can help you hold your dog—something really tongue-in-cheek like that.”

To top off the playfulness, Kwan discusses having dogs instead of human models as the faces of the campaign, and pairing each dog look with a complementary human outfit. A new take on Cruella fashion, perhaps? Back in real life, Kwan is also looking to partner with an animal charity in the UK and use her collection as a platform to support homeless dogs.

“Making a change with fashion is definitely a core belief of mine,” she says. She is very aware of the power of different platforms: for example, she has been exploring Web 3 collections for the past year, and believes the metaverse will continue to be relevant and prevalent in the future, particularly as it allows her to reach customers who might not come across her in the real world. 

“It was amazing to connect with people that could never [physically] try on my clothes; [they could even try some of ] my more outrageous pieces,” Kwan says. “People that maybe have disabilities could also try them. I think it is a very exciting part of fashion ... that it’s another way for a designer to connect with their consumers.” In the end, though, she says, “It’s definitely [better] having someone wanting to physically [own] a piece of yours,” she says.

Her work ethic, commitment to her craft, and belief that fashion is art are what led her to being selected as one of the five emerging East Asia couturiers to show their work the the Love of Couture exhibition. “People in general don’t know the dedication and the artistry, and the amount of trial and error that comes with making a beautiful couture piece,” she says. “But the generation now with social media can see the behind- the-scenes [reality] and know how much time goes into the handicraft. It is an artistry that I’ve always admired.”

“Working really hard” is one of Kwan’s main driving forces: she mentions it several times during our conversation, and she cites fellow classmate and current Nina Ricci creative director Harris Reed as an example of how important it is. “It’s a great time period for young designers to be on the rise. But I think it’s also important to value the traditions of just working hard and focusing,” Kwan says. “It really doesn’t mean much until you’re making a change physically in the world.”

NOW READ

Louise Wong on her transition from model to actress, speaking the language of fashion and Asian representation in modelling

Adele wears Robert Wun gown for Las Vegas concert

Destination by design: How Colombia’s beaches inspired Agua by Agua Bendita, a fashion brand loved by Jennifer Lopez and Hailey Bieber