Is the luxury market in trouble? (Photo: Getty Images)
Cover Is the luxury market in trouble? (Photo: Getty Images)

Luxury expert Daniel Langer looks at why the luxury market may soon see crisis on the horizon

What is luxury? This is a most elusive question because while some may associate luxury with stratospheric price tags or avant-garde design, the meaning remains ambiguous and seems to change from one brand narrative to another.

In this foggy landscape, the term “luxury” may be suffering from an identity crisis, and are often substituted by safer labels with words like “premium”. In the best-selling Luxury Marketing and Management (2011), the author of this column already noted 10 years ago that luxury is probably one of the most overused terms—yet almost everyone understands it to be something different.

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The price fallacy

The temptation to equate luxury with astronomical prices is an alluring shortcut. Certainly, iconic brands like Hermès can effortlessly command five—and even six—digit sums for their handcrafted Birkin bags. Ferrari is able to revv up so much desire—despite its price points—that clients might wait for years to get hold of a model. And Zegna selects—for their best clients once a year—the best fabric money can buy and tailor make an entire suit by hand, at price points that are out of reach to most.

However, this does not reveal the whole story. While a lofty price tag may be the most observable feature, it falls short of capturing the full scope of what luxury constitutes. Moreover, it offers little managerial guidance on how to create an authentic luxury brand.

Logomania: A symbol or a story?

Another realm of debate centers on the visual embodiment of a brand—its logo. While some opine that an overload of flashy logos detracts from the essence of luxury, this stands as an arbitrary judgment at best.

The aesthetic preferences of consumers vary, and what some may view as ostentatious, others may see as an elegant emblem of affluence. Every time stealth luxury was trending, logomania followed closely. 

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A new paradigm for creating extreme value

Recent academic endeavours at Pepperdine University’s Graziadio Business School Luxury Strategy Center posit a compelling model: that luxury is, at its core, about the creation of extreme value. The focal point here is the consumer’s emotional and psychological landscape, the field where real value is cultivated. Luxury brands must engage in a role reversal, stepping into the shoes of their consumers to understand their desires and expectations.

When a brand can incite a level of desire so profound that it overshadows the allure of competitors or how dear its price tag is, it has successfully produced extreme value, leading to a nonlinear willingness to pay. The power of extreme value perception negates the need for exorbitant pricing or other superficial markers. It roots luxury in the emotional and psychological dimensions, domains often overlooked yet fundamentally crucial for a brand’s staying power.

The critical role of a brand story

A brand’s narrative, its soul-script, emerges as the base in the quest for extreme value. Sadly, the industry landscape is littered with brands that lack a compelling story.

Research indicates that up to 95 per cent of luxury brands lack a compelling story. And this is fatal because extensive research at Pepperdine has shown that the brand story carries most of the value of a luxury brand. In other words, the brand story isn’t merely an optional aspect but the cornerstone of luxury branding.

Without an authentic and unique story that vividly articulates what the brand stands for, the potential for creating extreme value becomes a distant dream. In fact, Équité Research predicts that up to 50 per cent of today’s luxury brands will vanish by 2030—a reflection of poor brand storytelling.

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In a world that is filled with products and brands that compete for the attention of the world’s most affluent clients, a brand can no longer rely on traditional markers—quality, craftsmanship, design, heritage—to claim luxury status.

The future belongs to those that can articulate a compelling story, connect deeply with consumers and, most importantly, create extreme value—transforming the way consumers perceive themselves and the world around them.

This is not a luxury; it is a necessity.


Named one of the “Global Top Five Luxury Key Opinion Leaders to Watch”, Daniel Langer is the CEO of the luxury, lifestyle and consumer brand strategy firm Équité, and the executive professor of luxury strategy and pricing at Pepperdine University in Malibu, California. He consults many of the leading luxury brands in the world, is the author of several best-selling luxury management books, a global keynote speaker, and holds luxury masterclasses on the future of luxury, disruption, and the luxury metaverse in Europe, the USA, and Asia.

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