GLENDALE, ARIZONA - FEBRUARY 12: Rihanna performs during Apple Music Super Bowl LVII Halftime Show at State Farm Stadium on February 12, 2023 in Glendale, Arizona. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Roc Nation)
Cover Rihanna’s custom-made leather bustier from Loewe (Photo: Kevin Mazur/Getty Images for Roc Nation)

Rihanna’s Super Bowl half-time show was a hit, and so was her Loewe bustier. See how other structured pieces like this, from YSL to Balmain, combine strength and sexuality

Rihanna’s return to the stage and the announcement of her second pregnancy weren’t the only key takeaways from her highly anticipated Super Bowl half-time show earlier this week. 

Bad girl RiRi made a red-hot fashion statement with her scarlet Super Bowl ensemble that included a custom-made Loewe jumpsuit with a sculpted breast bustier and a leather maxi puffy coat by Alaïa, which was reportedly a tribute to the late fashion journalist André Leon Talley and his love of plush, down-filled capes. 

Read more: 5 Asian Designers André Leon Talley Championed Before They Were Cool

The bustier, in particular, has fashion enthusiasts in a tizzy with its bold portrayal of sensuality and strength. Not only does it embody women’s empowerment—like Wonder Woman with her red and gold breastplate—but it also pays homage to female sexuality with how blatantly it accentuates its wearer’s figure. Here is how this distinctive item of clothing has evolved through the past few decades.

1. Yves Saint Laurent

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Model Lisa in Yves Saint Laurent's diaphanous chiffon dress worn with artist Claude Lalanne's copper cast of model Veruschka's body during his fall 1969 Haute Couture collection presentation. Lou Lou de la Falaise and Betty Catroux observe from the front row. (Photo by Reginald Gray/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Above Yves Saint Laurent autumn-winter 1969 haute couture (Photo: Getty Images)
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Yves Saint Laurent Fall 1969 Ready to Wear Presentation (Photo by Reginald Gray/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Above Yves Saint Laurent autumn-winter 1969 haute couture (Photo: Getty Images)

This golden bustier, designed by sculptor Claude Lalanne for Yves Saint Laurent’s 1969 autumn-winter haute couture collection, serves as a blueprint for wearable sculpted pieces mimicking human anatomy. Lalanne made the body cast of famous German model Veruschka, and Laurent incorporated the breast and stomach plates into the collection’s black and Mediterranean blue gowns.

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2. Issey Miyake

Famed for his pleating and technological strides in fabric design, Japanese designer Issey Miyake had also dabbled in acrylic casting. For his autumn-winter 1980-81 collection, he sent models down the runway wearing jewel-toned bustiers with deep cleavage and belly button details, paired with flowing silk skirts to juxtapose the rigidity of the tops.

3. Alexander McQueen

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Model on the runway during the Alexander McQueen fall 1999 ready to wear collection. (Photo by Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Above Alexander McQueen autumn-winter 1999 collection (Photo: Getty Images)
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Model on the runway during the Alexander McQueen fall 1999 ready to wear collection on February 23, 1999 in Paris, France. (Photo by Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Above Alexander McQueen autumn-winter 1999 collection (Photo: Getty Images)

This coiled bustier designed by jeweller Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen’s 1999 autumn-winter show was a study in metal manipulation. McQueen worked with his long-time industry friend Leane to create this unique piece crafted with 97 pieces of aluminium coils. This design has since then been immortalised in our collective fashion memory.

Read more: Rest in Pleats: Fashion Designer Issey Miyake Dies at 84

4. Franck Sorbier

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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Franck Sorbier Spring/Summer 2012 Haute-Couture Show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2012 in Paris, France. (Photo by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage)
Above Franck Sorbier spring-summer 2012 haute couture (Photo: WireImage)
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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: A model walks the runway during the Franck Sorbier Spring/Summer 2012 Haute-Couture Show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2012 in Paris, France. (Photo by Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage)
Above Franck Sorbier spring-summer 2012 haute couture (Photo: WireImage)

French haute couturier Franck Sorbier turned plaster cast into avant-garde creations in his spring-summer 2012 collection of gowns featuring moulded pieces for the upper body. As well as the off-white colour palette, the intentionally unfinished bustiers pasted onto the models’ bodies contrasted against artfully bunched-up skirts created the effect of marble statues such as the ancient Greek sculpture Venus de Milo, which served as Sorbier’s inspiration.

5. Tom Ford

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Above Tom Ford spring-summer 2020 collection (Photo: courtesy of Tom Ford)
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SANTA MONICA, CALIFORNIA - JANUARY 12: Zendaya attends the 25th Annual Critics' Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on January 12, 2020 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images)
Above Zendaya wearing a custom breastplate by Tom Ford (Photo: Getty Images)

This hot-pink lacquered bustier was a highlight of Tom Ford’s spring-summer 2020 collection, and it made its way to the red carpet just one week after its launch when Zendaya wore a piece custom made for her to the Critics’ Choice Awards. Her metal breastplate was scanned to fit her chest perfectly and was arguably one of the best looks of the night. Ford even let her keep it afterwards as a memento.

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6. Balmain

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Above Balmain autumn-winter 2020 collection (Photo: courtesy of Balmain)
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VENICE, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 02:  Zendaya attends the red carpet of the movie "Dune" during the 78th Venice International Film Festival on September 03, 2021 in Venice, Italy. (Photo by Stefania D'Alessandro/Getty Images)
Above Zendaya wearing a custom dress by Balmain (Photo: Getty Images)

The idea of a moulded breastplate might seem stiff, but creative director Olivier Rousteing managed to bring movement to his take on the look in Balmain’s autumn-winter 2020 collection using leather. The brown calf leather was shaped into ripples and pleats that looked as if they were draped dripping wet over the model. Again, Zendaya had a hand in making it popular when she wore a rendition of this design in a Balmain custom dress in sandy hue to the Venice premiere of Dune in 2021.

7. Schiaparelli

Creative director Daniel Roseberry referenced certain Yves Saint Laurent designs in Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection, most notably Laurent’s 1983 Big Bow Dress, as well as the golden bustier mentioned earlier. Roseberry went on to add well-defined abs and nipple piercings into his moulded pieces.

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