Heritage watchmakers are symbols of luxury, but unconventional brands are capturing longtime collector Winston Koo's attention
Brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin dominate the headspace of watch collectors due to their exceptional quality and historical significance. These names have been around for decades and, in some cases, centuries. They’ve come to define today’s industry, but they’re not the only purveyors of exceptional timepieces.
Winston Koo started collecting watches in the early 1990s, amassing as many as 200 at one point. These days, after years of typically favouring mainstream maisons that combine impressive craftsmanship with traditional design, he's experimenting with independent watchmakers.
His newfound fondness for unconventional timepieces is rooted in their creative design, which appeals to those who aren’t afraid to attract attention. Here are a few of the eccentric brands he's recently added to his collection.
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Urwerk
Co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have been pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking since 1997. Urwerk’s Swiss-based team, known for its innovation, has mastered the arts of 3D-modelling and micro-engineering, among others, cementing the company’s reputation as a trailblazer.
Its “satellite” system—first seen on the Opus V, a collaboration with Harry Winston in 2005—pioneered a complex three-dimensional dial within which three cubic satellites mark the model’s display hours. For 2019, Urwerk unveiled the self-winding UR-105 CT Maverick, which features this signature movement alongside an ultra-masculine bronze bezel that develops a finish over time that’s unique to its wearer.
Push the sliding tab to discover the Maverick’s inner mechanism, including a new open-worked carousel that, according to Baumgartner, depicts the brand’s “evolving style.”
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