While the Philippine Tatler Ball is host to some of the most elegant flowing gowns, it is also the season for dapper and bespoke tuxedos. However, there are still some who miss the mark on what is expected in a black tie affair. Here are some tips for getting that debonair Bond look down for the ball:

Made to Order v. Made to Measure

When men go to master tailors and ask to have their suit made, the first thing that must be made understood on both sides is that a suit may be made to order (alternately known as bespoke), or made to measure. Bespoke suits are made from a fresh individual pattern, and, usually, takes multiple fittings, which ensures a very custom and fitted look. For people with less time to do multiple fittings, a made to measure suit is the next option. It takes about one or two fittings based on a template pattern used by the tailor for suits, which may not make the suit look unique but still has that custom fit that is both comfortable and stylish.

No Belts Allowed

Tuxedos are NOT worn with belts. The trousers for a tuxedo should not have belt loops. If sometime before the ball, you start losing an inch or two on your waist, the only option is to use braces or suspenders to bring those trousers up. Wearing them is functional as it is fashionable as it does not constrict the waist and put the weight on the shoulders.

Cummerbund v. Vest

Traditionally, a vest is preferred because it keeps the silhouette of seemingly wearing a coat and still have that formal look and stature even without a coat. However, it must be noted that with formalwear, the waist should not be visible; hence, a cummerbund is found to be more appropriate. Especially when wearing Marcella dress shirts, the design ends a little past midway the abdomen area because there is a presumption that a cummerbund is to be in place. No matter what is preferred, DO NOT wear both at the same time.

The Bow Tie

With the advent of Youtube and several how-to guides online, there is no reason to buy a clip-on bow tie for adults. A well-groomed adult man should know how to tie his own bow tie. As for colour, formal events vary. While more fashion-forward and red carpet events in Hollywood and New York sport colourful and whimsical bow ties, for strictly formal events, which is normally a black tie event, the invitation says it all.

The great debate now lies with actually using a regular formal black necktie versus the bow tie. While many would argue that bow ties are the requisite for black tie events, contemporary fashion designers and stylists would argue that it is really dependent on the collar style of the dress shirt. Traditionally, dress shirts come with wing type collars, which can only be worn with bow ties. With most dress shirts designed with a turndown collar, it can now be considered acceptable to wear a basic black necktie for a more contemporary look.

Accessories

The tuxedo is designed to be very basic and understated because it is meant to keep all men looking the same at the celebration, and highlight the women’s elegant gowns and jewellery. It is made with strict and basic rules so that it can complement any colour or any design that women would wear. The best way to lift a tuxedo up to a slightly higher fashion level is through the pocket squares and cufflinks. The greatest myth with pocket squares is that it should match the tie, which is absolutely NOT TRUE. You can keep it colourful by matching the theme of the party or your partner’s dress. Cufflinks are very interesting because it can be as regal as showing off your family crest or even as contemporary as a “Las Vegas” homage, which is quite the conversation-starter at any event.