Tay Liam Wee, chairman of WatchBox at the brand's watch collector's lounge in Hong Kong (Photo courtesy of WatchBox)
Cover Tay Liam Wee, chairman of WatchBox at the brand's watch collector's lounge in Hong Kong (Photo courtesy of WatchBox)

A chat with WatchBox chairman and co-founder Tay Liam Wee gave Tatler an insight into the life and times of a die-hard watch lover and collector who has brought some of the most discerning independent watchmakers from Europe to Asia

Sixteen years ago, Tay Liam Wee sold his family-owned, multi-brand luxury watch retail chain Sincere Watch, which was originally founded by Tay Boo Jiang in 1954, to Hong Kong-based watchmaker and retailer Peace Mark. With haute horlogerie in his veins, Wee went on to co-found another platform in the luxury watch landscape: enter WatchBox. “Danny Govberg, Justin Reis—who is now our CEO—and I started out as co-founders of WatchBox,” says Wee. While Reis came from a private equity background, Govberg and Wee had over three decades of luxury watch experience each, and had earned the title of industry veterans.

The new platform aimed at digitising the watch collecting experience. However, the curation of collectible luxury timepieces can also be viewed in person at the brand’s collector’s lounges. “Sometimes it’s your grandfather’s watch or it’s a gift from your father, so we realised that each watch is special. So, in 2016, we launched an e-commerce platform for watch lovers where they could buy, sell or even buy back their favourite timepieces,” he says.

On the day Wee spoke with Tatler, WatchBox had hosted a 100- piece exhibition in its Hong Kong lounge on Duddell Street honouring two independent watchmakers, or “living contemporaries”, as Wee refers to them: FP Journe by François-Paul Journe and De Bethune by Denis Flageollet. The watches went on tour, appearing in WatchBox’s collector’s lounges in Singapore, Shanghai and Dubai.

In case you missed it: Wristcheck's Austen Chu on ageism in the watch industry and attracting Gen Z Collectors

Why did you pick François-Paul Journe and Denis Flageollet’s watches for your exhibition?
Back in the day, we had to sell what the factories were producing. Now, it’s a free market. We began engaging our collector base in the 1990s to learn what they were looking for to upgrade their watches. Of course, everyone desired and knew about the Pateks and Rolexes, but then we noticed a growing interest in the independents, primarily because their productions were so limited that these watches were rarely seen on the market.

We discovered that two brands stood out: FP Journe and De Bethune. I know François-Paul very well because I brought him to Asia in the early 2000s. In addition, even though the watches appear to be so dissimilar—FP Journe’s designs are more classic, whereas De Bethune’s are more futuristic—we discovered that the two watchmakers have very similar backgrounds. They were master watchmakers who collaborated in a watchmaking studio that created, designed and developed high-complication timepieces for luxury brands; [for example,] if you see high complications in brands like Cartier, it’s because they subcontract [building complications] to these studios with talented watchmakers on their roster. It’s been 20 years since Denis and François-Paul decided to put their names on their dials, so it was time to celebrate them. As well as these brands, I have also brought Daniel Roth and Frank Muller to Asia.

Tatler Asia
The Frank Muller Master Banker with three time zones (Photo courtesy of WatchBox)
Above The Frank Muller Master Banker with three time zones (Photo courtesy of WatchBox)

Are there any stories behind your favourite watches from your personal collection?
I am emotionally connected to my watches. I have been in the trade for so long and I meet with all these watchmakers and companies directly, and each of these pieces has left an indelible mark on my memory. The first is about my dear friend Frank Muller. Prior to 1982, the brand did not exist. As a result, when Frank first arrived with his creations, I decided to introduce him to the Asian market.

One of his most important creations is the Master Banker, which has three time zones. I recall him meeting one of our banker friends, an Iranian American trader who worked across multiple time zones. He walked up to Frank and casually mentioned: “Why don’t you create a watch for us bankers? We have to trade across the US, Europe and Asia; I need a watch for three time zones.” Keep in mind that mechanical watches with only one movement did not display different time zones at the time. That day, Frank returned home after we had dined and wined, and before we knew it, he had conceptualised the Master Banker.

The third is the platinum, limited-edition tourbillon souverain with a black mother-of-pearl dial from FP Journe. This watch was created specifically for Sincere’s 50th anniversary celebrations. The tourbillon in this watch is extremely intricate; carving the piece of black mother-of-pearl for the dial was a delicate operation, because it was so difficult to work with. François-Paul told me how many dials he broke while making it.

Don't miss: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Catherine Rénier unveils the watchmaker’s plans for Watches and Wonders 2023

What would you recommend as a good investment watch?
Personally, I don’t see watch collecting as the means to mine stocks. And I don’t believe anyone should. It must begin with their interests; there are other ways to earn money. You must think about what you’re looking for. I would consider the brand’s history and heritage—for example, the provenance—and then the quality and condition.

Let me give you an example. When it comes to chronograph watches, everyone knows about the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster and Breitling Navitimer. But what’s the difference? These are all great watches with original calibres. But it’s not about wanting to pay a price—it cannot be a deciding factor. You need to ask yourself, what do you enjoy learning about these watches? If you made a good investment and your watch is getting hotter [in demand], then that is great, you just hit the jackpot. But in the meantime, are you enjoying that watch every day?

That’s how you value it. How do you measure that feeling? You simply cannot.

Tatler Asia
De Bethune DB1 (Photo courtesy of WatchBox)
Above De Bethune DB1 (Photo courtesy of WatchBox)

What is the future of the pre-owned watch market in Asia?
I can only quote industry sources, but pre-owned luxury watches will overtake the primary [luxury watch] market within a decade. And this is what industry analysts predict based on growth rates. I can see that happening, because WatchBox has built a sizeable business in six years and we’re still growing.

Rolex has also announced the launch of an official, certified pre- owned programme. If the industry’s largest player has finally made a statement and is taking a stand, it is an indication of the industry’s future.

Topics